Apricot Favorite was obtained specifically for cultivation in the Moscow region. The Moscow breeders were faced with the task of obtaining a good, frost-resistant and self-fertile variety with tasty, decaying berries. Judging by the gardeners' reviews, to a certain extent, this task has been solved. The favorite is growing successfully in its region and is quite popular.
The favorite was singled out at the turn of the millennium, in 2000, in Moscow, and in 2004 it was included in the State Register for the Central Region. Since then, it has been grown quite successfully and is recognized as one of the best for the Moscow region.
The tree has a moderate vigor of growth, reaching a height of four meters. The crown is translucent, rather rare, well lit and ventilated. Spreading shape, slightly raised.
Apricot tree Favorite has a sparse, well-ventilated crown
It does not require pollinators, since it has a high self-fertility, which is an important factor for cold regions. But in the vicinity of such varieties as Monastyrsky, Lel, Tsarsky, the yield will be higher.
The gardener will not have to wait long for the first berries from the Favorite - he will certainly try them 3-4 years after planting, and this is a good indicator.
The fruits look great - a small (on average 30 g), bright orange, rounded berry, with a glossy surface and barely noticeable fluff. The berry is decorated with a large blush from the sunny side. Gorgeous, juicy, but firm and tasty pulp, with a very small bone that falls out of the berry when it is broken. Five points - this is the tasting assessment of the palatability of the Favorite fruits (at the time of the registration of the variety, the assessment was lower - 4.5 points).
The berries are well stored and transported. They are good fresh, and the jams, preserves and compotes from them are simply amazing. Good for drying.
Apricot berries Orange favorite with bright blush
Productivity is not the Favorite's strong point - one tree bears an average of 20 kg of fruit, which is clearly not enough for a large family. Therefore, you will have to plant several apricot trees to fully meet the need for harvesting for the winter.
The late ripening of the fruit is perhaps the main disadvantage of this variety. In years when autumn comes early and summer was rainy, the berries do not have time to ripen and remain greenish hanging on the branches.
The favorite has good winter hardiness of wood and good resistance of flower buds to short recurrent frosts.
Moderately resistant to clotterosporium disease, slightly affected by aphids (1%).
If the gardener decides to plant several apricot trees on his site, then they need to be placed at a distance of four meters from each other in a row. In the case when the row will not be one, then each next one should be no closer than five meters from the neighboring one. This arrangement will provide good lighting and ventilation of the crowns, as well as ease of tree care.
It is good if the trees are placed along the fence, which will protect them from the cold wind. It is even better if this fence is located to the north or northeast of the young plantings. Instead of a fence, there may be dense trees or a wall of a building. Well, if there is nothing like this, then for the first three to four years you will have to protect the trees with specially made shields, painted white, in order to reflect the sun's rays.
Apricot is undemanding to the composition of the soil, the structure is much more important for it. Apricot grows best on loose, water and air permeable soils. Unsuitable for growing damp places, with a close location of groundwater.
The trees are planted in early spring. An experienced gardener will choose a time for this when the sap flow has not yet begun, but is about to begin. In this case, a young tree that wakes up in a new place will immediately start rooting, grow, and will get strong enough by winter. It will be much easier for such a tree to endure the coming frosts.
In autumn, when nurseries begin mass digging of seedlings for sale, they choose the best specimens with well-developed roots and healthy, intact stems.
They give preference to seedlings at the age of 1-2 years, these take root better and grow faster.
Some inexperienced gardeners believe that it is better to plant older trees, as if this way they will harvest earlier. It's a delusion. The older the tree, the more painful it suffers from replanting. By its age, it has already grown rather large roots, which cannot be dug out without damage, often significant. In a new place, such a tree is sick for a long time, it is difficult to take root. As a result, its younger cousins are likely to overtake both in growth and at the beginning of fruiting.
For a quiet winter sleep, young seedlings need to be provided with two conditions:
After digging in the seedling, it will need to be covered from frost
Pits for planting must be prepared in advance, no later than 2-3 weeks before planting. And since it will be difficult to do this in the spring, for obvious reasons (snow, frozen ground), then the pits are prepared in the fall.
The size of the hole should be large enough to accommodate the plant's root system and the right amount of nutrient mixture. Usually it is enough to dig a hole with a diameter of 70–80 cm and the same depth. In this case, the fertile part of the soil from its upper part must be set aside separately.
Then they begin to lay the nutrient mixture in the pit. It consists of equal parts of the soil deposited when digging a hole, sand and organic matter (humus, compost, bottom peat). And you also need to add mineral fertilizers - 300 g of superphosphate and 1-2 kg of wood ash. It is advisable to cover the pit until spring to avoid leaching of nutrients.
In the spring, they take out seedlings from storage sites, examine them, make sure that they have endured the winter well (the bark is smooth, shiny, the sections are healthy, light green) and start planting.
A young tree is lowered into a hole on a previously prepared mound of nutrient mixture, the roots are straightened and covered with earth, tamping it in layers. At the same time, make sure that the root collar is slightly deepened (3-5 cm), and the inoculation site is located at least 5 cm above the ground. Form a near-stem circle and water abundantly to ensure a good adherence of the soil to the roots and eliminate the voids inevitably formed during backfill.
When planting an apricot, the pit is filled with earth layer by layer by ramming
Now it remains only to cut the seedling to a height of 60–80 cm, which is the first stage in the formation of the future crown of the Favorite.
The rules of cultivation and care for apricot Favorite are simple and it is better to follow them. In this case, under favorable weather conditions, the gardener can be guaranteed a good harvest.
Everyone knows that any plant needs watering. But the watering rules for different plants are different. Apricot Favorite refers to drought-resistant crops, reacts poorly to stagnant water, dampness. Therefore, it is watered only 3-4 times per season, but abundantly. After watering, the soil should be moist to a depth of 30–35 cm.
It is especially important to adhere to this schedule for young trees with an underdeveloped root system. At the age of 7–8 years, the watering value for the tree becomes not too critical and can be reduced, especially in the rainy season.
When the tree has used up a significant part of the nutrients laid down during planting, additional fertilization is started. As a rule, this is started after the first harvest of fruits.
Now the tree will need organic fertilizers, which are embedded in the soil when digging near-trunk circles in spring or autumn. This will need to be done once every 3-4 years in the amount of 5 kg of humus or compost per 1 m2 trunk circle.
Mineral fertilizers are applied annually. Nitrogen - in spring, potash - in early summer, phosphorus - in autumn.
An overdose of fertilizers for apricots is more harmful than a lack of them.
Some inexperienced gardeners sometimes overlook this important part of annual tree maintenance and should not. The science of trimming behavior is complicated only at first glance. Having carefully studied the types of pruning and the rules for their implementation, having understood how the crown should be formed correctly, the gardener in the future will easily and competently perform these works.
For apricot Favorite, as for a fairly tall tree, a crown formation in three tiers, which is called sparse-tiered, is suitable. The procedure is as follows:
Apricot Favorite is given a sparse-tiered crown shape
This is the simplest type of pruning, known even to the inexperienced and novice gardener. Without knowing any rules, a person intuitively understands that it is advisable to remove dry branches. Sick and broken as well. To clarify, this procedure is usually carried out in the fall, when the garden is being prepared for winter and in early spring, if frostbitten or broken branches have been added over the winter.
Designed to regulate the density of the crown. If, growing inward, the shoots shade the crown too much, they are thinned out. This operation is usually carried out at the same time as sanitary pruning. It is worth noting that due to the sparse structure of the crown inherent in the Favorite, this type of pruning is rarely used for it. And also in the summer they cut off the tips of young, annual twigs by 10-15 cm. This is called chasing, the purpose of which is to encourage the growth of additional shoots. They will give additional fruiting next year.
When the old tree reduces the amount of yield, fruiting goes to the ends of the branches, you can prolong the fruiting period by rejuvenation.
First of all, you need to bare all skeletal branches inside the crown. A year later, a large number of young growth will appear on them. The tops growing up are cut out, and many flower buds should form on the remaining annual shoots.
And you can also carry out a more serious operation - replace two or three skeletal branches with new ones. To do this, they are cut off, leaving a part 30–40 cm long. By next year, several young shoots will grow on them, which cut out all but one on each branch - the strongest and located on the outside of the parent branch. They will become a continuation of the old cut branches.
In a few years, in the same way, it will be possible to replace another 2-3 branches.
Any pruning, although it is for the benefit of the tree, if done incorrectly, can cause damage, sometimes significant. Therefore, before proceeding with the operation of cutting any branches, the gardener should study the basic rules.
Of course, you need to know the main pests and signs of diseases. But it is more important to know and implement preventive measures.
The garden, in which preventive and sanitary and recreational activities are carried out on time, avoid diseases and pests. The gardener needs to know what kind of work these activities consist of and when to carry them out.
Time to put things in order in the garden, collect fallen leaves, cut out dry and diseased branches, and light a big fire, in the burnt, hot ash of which, it is so good to bake potatoes. When the ash cools down, it must be collected and stored, because it is a valuable mineral fertilizer.
After that, you need to dissolve slaked lime in water, add 1% copper sulfate and whitewash the trunks and skeletal tree branches. The garden begins to look beautiful, but the goal is not only (and not so much) in this - such whitewashing will protect the bark of the tree from winter sunburn, and in early spring it will stop insects that want to climb the crown of the tree to satisfy their hunger by eating swollen buds, only blossoming flowers, first succulent leaves and ovaries.
Lime whitewashing will protect apricot bark from sunburn
Then you need to pick up a shovel and dig up the trunk circles, while disturbing the bugs, ticks and other harmful insects, already plunged into winter sleep, so that the night frost will destroy them.
Now it's time to take a sprayer and process the crowns, trunks and branches of trees, as well as the soil of the trunk circles, with a 3% solution of copper sulfate (you can also take a 5% solution of iron sulfate or Bordeaux mixture). This simple operation will disinfect the bark and soil, neutralize the spores of fungi and insects.
Further, you need to shelter young trees from frost in huts and wrap older trunks with roofing material so that the hares do not gnaw them.
Several times during the winter you need to visit the garden just to admire the snow-covered trees, whimsically covered with frost, and at the same time check their condition. It will be nice if the shelters of young apricots, as well as the storage areas for dug-in seedlings (if any), are additionally covered with a layer of snow of about 60 cm.
In early spring, you need to remove snow from tree trunks, remove shelters, and treat trees with potent drugs against fungi, ticks and other insects. To do this, you can use the long-tested:
Examine the bark of trees. If cracks are found that can occur during frosts with frequent temperature changes, they must be thoroughly cleaned, disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and covered with garden varnish.
It is unlikely that a gardener will have to face them if he conscientiously performed preventive work. But just in case, you need to know how diseased plants and pests look like, what are the main signs of their manifestation.
Fungal disease. It affects the leaves, fruits and shoots of the plant. Usually, the first signs are found in spring, with the appearance of small (1-2 mm) red-brown spots on the leaves, which quickly, within 1-2 weeks, grow to 5-10 mm in size. From the inside, the spots dry out and fall out, forming holes. After that, the leaves turn yellow, dry up and fall off. With a massive defeat, the so-called popularly, summer leaf fall occurs. Similar, reddish-brown spots and bumps appear on the affected fruits, turning into a continuous crust in advanced cases. Treatment with fungicides according to the instructions.
Fungal spores are usually carried by bees during flowering. Following the infected flower, young shoots and leaves are affected. They curl up like a burn and sag. To prevent further penetration of the fungus, the affected shoots must be cut off, grabbing 20-30 cm of healthy wood, perhaps even removing the branch completely.
In summer, the fungus infects the fruits with gray rot, which shrivel and turn black. Such fruits must be removed. The diseased plant is treated with fungicides.
Strikes the bark of a tree through damage to it. The fungus, penetrating inside the bark, causes its swelling, the formation of tubercles and wrinkles. The affected area of the bark dries out and becomes covered with cracks, through which gum begins to stand out. And also on the affected tree, leaves, flowers, ovaries dry up, which hang on the tree without falling off. Treatment comes down to removing the affected branches completely and treating them with fungicides. Prevention is the usual one described above.
It hibernates in cracks in the bark of a tree, in the upper layers of the soil. With the onset of spring, it rises to the crown and begins to eat buds, buds, ovaries, leaves. During this time, beetles can be harvested by hand. To do this, use a cloth that is spread under a tree and shaken off sleeping insects on it. Since the beetles are in this state only at low temperatures (up to + 5 ° C), then with the onset of warm days this opportunity will be missed. And you also need to carry out treatment with insecticides, for example, Decis.
Usually introduced into the tree by ants. It settles first of all on the inner side of leaves, then on young shoots. Belongs to the sucking class. When eating the soft flesh of the leaves, they curl, which reduces the effectiveness of spraying with insecticides (Decis, Fufanon). Therefore, it is advisable to cut off all twisted leaves before processing.
These are the larvae of various beetles, including weevils (they are small, from 4 to 6 mm), May beetles (20–25 mm) and others. They crawl out in early June from eggs laid in the soil. They feed on apricot roots, which can cause significant damage. To combat the beetles, you need to treat the soil with Diazonin. It works for three weeks, does not accumulate in the soil and does not get into the fruit.
A favorite among other advantages, it stands out among other frost-resistant varieties for its excellent berry taste. For this property, the inhabitants of the Moscow region forgive him for insufficient productivity and the fact that in some years his berries do not have time to ripen until autumn. The variety can be confidently recommended for cultivation, among others, earlier, which will hedge in an unsuccessful season.
Hello! My name is Pyotr Vladimirovich. I am 63 years old. By education - a mechanical engineer.
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Apricot is a light and heat-loving culture, therefore, it is best to plant a tree in open ground in early spring (early April). When planted during this period, the seedling will root better, and the risk of frost damage to the tree will decrease. Autumn planting is less favorable.
For growing apricots, the southern sides of the site are suitable with free access to sunlight. The tree can be planted along a fence or near buildings. The main requirement is that the site must be protected from north and north-east winds and drafts.
For better rooting, a young tree can be shielded on the north side with a small white-painted shield. This design will reflect the sun's rays well and prevent the seedling from freezing.
Apricot grows well and bears fruit on small slopes and elevated areas. You should not plant a tree in lowlands and in places with constant flooding. The groundwater level should not be higher than 3-4 m.
The nutrient composition and structure of the soil also matter. For apricot Favorit, light fertile soils are suitable: sandy loam, loam and light loam. The optimum acidity is neutral or slightly acidic, the pH level is 6–7. The soil should be well permeable to water and air. Sandy and clayey areas are not suitable. On non-irrigated chernozem, the tree begins to bear fruit late and gives an irregular and meager harvest.
Good neighbors for apricot will be old pears, maple, oak, ash. These are trees with a developed and deep root system. In areas with such plants, the apricot usually always takes root.
A healthy seedling is the key to successful rooting, the development of a strong tree and a bountiful harvest. Therefore, it is best to buy planting material in specialized stores or nurseries. The seedlings offered in the markets are not always of good quality. Buying a tree from an online store is also not the best option. Even if the seller provides quality seedlings, they may be damaged in transit.
When buying planting material, consider the following:
For planting, choose annual or biennial plants. They can be both open and closed root systems.
Seedlings that are sold in containers take root much better and enter the fruiting period earlier.
Choose seedlings with an even, well-formed stem
It is best to prepare the site a year before planting the apricot. Since garden plots with one-component soil are more common in the Moscow region, it should be structured. For this, a planting pit is dug with a diameter of about 80 cm and a depth of 70 cm. Its size can be increased if the soil on the site is not enriched with nutrients. The poorer the soil, the larger the hole should be. Its bottom must be covered with drainage. It can be expanded clay, coarse gravel or broken brick.
For the pit, a soil mixture is prepared, consisting of clay, peat, sand, taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Also add:
From above, the planting pit is covered with a layer of clean soil.
The second option for preparing the pit is 2 weeks before planting the apricot seedling. The excavated soil is mixed with:
With this preparation, fresh organic matter and ammonia fertilizers cannot be added, as they can burn the root system, as a result of which the seedling will die.
Before proceeding with planting, you should trim off any dried or damaged roots. There is no need to update the cut of previously cut roots. The roots of the seedling are dipped in a soil mash. It is prepared immediately before planting: fertile soil is diluted with water to a state of thick sour cream. You can also add Heteroauxin to the mixture (0.1 g per 10 L of water). This product stimulates the formation of roots and promotes better development of the young tree.
In the first month after planting, you need to monitor soil moisture. The earth must not be allowed to dry out.
Planting a seedling on a certain hill will improve the living conditions of its root system
The favorite belongs to self-fertile varieties, so it does not require additional pollinators. However, many gardeners advise, for a good ovary, to plant a tree next to such apricot varieties as Tsarsky, Monastyrsky, Lel.
Grazhdansky prospect Russia, St. Petersburg +7 911 746 22 45
Apricot Goldrich: photos, reviews, description and characteristics of the variety. Popular in Europe and America, the Goldrich apricot is grown commercially. Large, beautiful and tasty berry attracts gardeners from Russia and Ukraine. Many people want to grow this variety on the site. What is this handsome overseas man - let's get acquainted
Apricot variety Goldrich was introduced in America in 1971 for commercial use. Obtained by crossing Sun Glo and Perfection varieties. For more than 40 years of existence, he moved to Western Europe and found wide distribution there. In our country, a guest is rare.
Goldrich apricot tree is of medium height with a wide, spreading crown.
The variety is self-fertile. Needs pollinators for good fruit setting. Pollinators: Har Grange and Lambertine # 1. But, most likely, local varieties that bloom at the same time as Goldrich are also suitable for pollination.
Quickly. In some sources, it is stated that Goldrich enters fruiting time 2 years after planting.
Productivity is high - 50-60 kg per tree. The variety is not used for dessert purposes and is not used for processing. The berries are large, attractive, very good presentation.
The weight of individual fruits reaches 150–160 grams, on average - 60–100 g. The color is light orange, with a weak blush on the sunny side. Fully ripe fruits have an excellent, sweet and sour taste and a pronounced aroma.
Medium-sized stone separates well from the fruit, the core is bitter.
Goldrich berries are light orange in color, with a faint blush on the sunny side.
Goldrich berries are light orange in color, with a faint blush on the sunny side.
High transportability, storage up to two weeks. The variety is declared as winter-hardy, but in the conditions of Eastern Europe and Central Russia, at temperatures below -28 ° C, there are cases of wood freezing. Medium early flowering, which often leads to freezing of flower buds during recurrent frosts.
Goldrich apricot flowers are medium-sized, white
Fruit ripening occurs in late July and early August. In the nursery "Agrosad" (Ukraine, Zaporozhye region), they claim that the fruits of the Goldrich variety ripen in early July. Growing experience since 2009.
Note! The variety is highly resistant to moniliosis.
Growing apricot goldrich in the southern regions does not require any non-standard agricultural techniques.
Landing site standard requirements:
Top dressing combined with watering:
Autumn and spring sanitary and preventive measures against diseases and pests. When growing apricots in more northern regions, you will have to pay attention to sheltering young (3-4 years old) trees for the winter from freezing, but this will not always give an effect.
Once I asked a question about Goldrich to Alexander Andraschuk from Shawnee's kennel. He has Goldrich about 15 years old. It can withstand 27-28 degrees of frost. If below, not only flowers but also wood can freeze. So, it makes sense to plant it south of the Zaporozhye-Chernivtsi line.
In the winter of 2013–2014, Goldrich (USA) froze to the ground - the Voronezh landing site. Brought from Poland.Hargrand (Canada-Ontario) tolerated well.
Maxim_ra, Ukraine, Globinsky district
Goldrich - Fruits are large enough, calibrated, beautifully colored, have an excellent appearance. The tree itself is very beautiful during the fruiting period. Taste - matches the appearance. The pulp is quite fleshy, pleasant.
Rotting of some fruits is noted. Despite the spring frost (with damage), there is a harvest, as it has a relatively late flowering. The tree (6 years old) is still compact and comfortable. But the increase is already more than a meter.
Our Gold Rich is already fully ripe and fully harvested, in total about 8-10 kg of excellent large fruits have been harvested from a three-year tree! The largest-fruited variety in our collection today! Very beautiful rich orange color, dense and tasty, the bone is free, transportability and marketability are the highest! Normalization was not done, the average size is 70–80g. The fruits crumble when overripe, so you need to monitor and do the harvest on time, we are very happy with the variety!
Apricot variety Goldrich deserves the attention of gardeners. High yield and early maturity, tasty and transportable berries are the indisputable advantages of the variety. But growing in cold regions is problematic. The variety can be recommended for gardeners and farmers in the south of Russia and Ukraine.
Favorit rarely suffers from pests and fungi on the site. Basically, they are dangerous for him:
The likelihood of infection by fungi and parasites increases with waterlogged soil and thickened crown. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil, thin out the shoots in time and remove fallen leaves and fruits rotting on the ground from the site.