Delosperma is a succulent plant from the Aizov family. This genus lives in South and East African countries. Its main representatives are flowering shrubs, and a number of herbaceous varieties can be grown as ground covers.

Due to its beautiful flowering and variety of colors, this plant is often used in the design of the front edge of flower beds. Quite often, it is also found on alpine slides - the compact size of the bushes allows them to fit into a variety of compositions.

By choosing the right place and observing all the conditions for caring for Delosperm, you can enjoy its appearance for many years. The main thing is to provide it with proper protection from frost and spring moisture. Due to its small size, this plant is also well suited for home or container growing.

The name of the flower is derived from the words "conspicuous, conspicuous" and "seed" and refers to the large size of its seed pods. Despite the low growth of delosperm bushes (up to 15 cm), they are able to grow quickly and widely. The foliage of the plant has an interesting feature: crystals of mineral salts can appear on its surface, which is why it is sometimes called "ice". Delosperm flowers are shaped like multi-colored daisies, have many narrow petals and are represented by a wide range of different colors. The flowering period for many species is very long and lasts from the last days of May until autumn frosts.

Delosperm care rules

Growing place

Due to the moisture reserve in the leaves, delosperm tolerates both heat and drought well. In the northern regions, a succulent will need the warmest and sunniest place possible. In the southern ones, you can plant the plant in light partial shade or shade it in the afternoon. Places where the soil heats up and dries out for a long time are considered unsuitable for a plant. Stagnant moisture together with coolness can destroy the flower.

For home growing, you need to pick up a wide, but not very deep pot. Higher tanks are filled with drainage by 2/3.

Watering mode

It is recommended to water the delosperma exclusively in the morning. This is done after the top of the soil has begun to dry out. So that water does not accumulate at the roots, the soil should be moistened only when necessary, and not according to the schedule. So in cold weather it is necessary to wait until the soil is almost completely dry. During watering, it is worth trying so that moisture does not accumulate in the leaf sinuses, and there are no puddles on the ground.

If a houseplant is taken out into the garden for the summer, it must be protected from heavy precipitation: even the presence of drainage holes does not guarantee protection against overflow. At home, the plant should be watered sparingly. During the rest of the bush, this is done only after the soil in the pot is about half dry.


Delosperma grows well in open sunny areas, direct rays contribute to its active growth. It can be in the light all day, with the exception of the too hot southern regions. There, for a flower, you should choose a place where it can be under the sun only until lunch or in the evening. But excessive shading will lead to stretching of the shoots and weaker flowering.

For domestic plants, windows of the south, southeast or southwest directions are usually chosen.


In summer, Delosperma is able to withstand short periods of heat up to +40 degrees, but temperatures slightly above +25 degrees are considered optimal for it. In winter, it is recommended to keep the flower cool (about +8 degrees). Short, but not too frequent, fluctuations are acceptable.

Humidity level

Delosperma is not sensitive to changes in humidity, but during periods of heat and drought, the area around the bush can be sprayed occasionally.

The soil

The optimal soil for delosperma should be light and breathable. In loose soil, roots can develop better. Water in the soil should not linger - this can lead to the development of putrefactive processes. You should not choose overly fertile soils, only slightly nutritious will be enough.

For self-preparation of the soil mixture, you will need turf, humus and perlite. You can also add some charcoal and brick debris there to loosen the earth. The resulting substrate should have a slightly acidic reaction (no more than 6.5). The area around the home bush can be additionally covered with sphagnum or sprinkled with small pebbles. This will allow the soil to dry out more slowly, and the plant will need to be watered much less frequently. Can be mulched with humus or small stones and areas near garden bushes.

The land next to the delosperm needs to be periodically loosened, as well as cleaned of weeds.


Usually, homemade delosperma is almost never fed. This should be done only with adult plants that have not been replaced with soil for more than 2 years. Top dressing is carried out no more than once every 3 weeks from mid-spring to mid-summer. For this, you can use soluble fertilizers at half the dosage indicated.

This feature of caring for delosperm is due to the fact that from an excess of nutrients, it begins to develop worse, bloom and stretch less.


Only overgrown or diseased specimens should be transplanted. The ideal time for this is the end of the dormant period, before the start of the growing season.


Pinching and pruning of shoots is carried out only if necessary. Slow growth or the presence of a large number of dry or withered stems can usually be the cause. They also do this for better survival of transplanted plants or cuttings. All the lower leaves are removed from them. To stimulate growth, you can cut the tops of the longest stems. This will allow lateral shoots to develop.

You should also regularly remove wilted flowers - this will last longer. An exception is made only if seeds need to be collected from the plant.


The bright multi-colored flowers of delosperm open only in the sun, on rainy and cloudy days they are closed. But you can enjoy their view for a very long time - flowering continues from late spring to late autumn. On one stalk, a lot of single flowers-baskets are formed from 2 to 7 cm in diameter. Due to their number and size large enough for a small bush, the plant forms real flower rugs.

In the middle of each flower is a small ball of miniature petals. Longer and thinner petals extend from it. Their color includes the whole range of tones of purple, red, yellow and white, there are also two-tone specimens. The flower shape can be either simple or semi-double.

The seed capsule of the plants is large enough and contains many small seeds. Having matured, it opens up from moisture penetration, widely scattering seeds, therefore, to obtain seed material, you need to seize the right moment. After collecting, the pods are dried, and after removing the seeds, they are stored in paper bags.

Methods for reproduction of delosperm

For reproduction of delosperm, two main methods are usually used - seed (seedling) and vegetative.

Growing from seeds

So that by the time of moving to the garden, young plants can grow strong enough and bloom earlier, seeds should be sown for seedlings already in the second half of January or in February. Delosperms begin to bloom about 4 months after sowing.

The planting container is filled with peat-containing soil. The seeds are distributed superficially, and on top they are covered with a small layer of snow. By thawing, the water will be absorbed and transfer the seeds a little deeper. After sowing, the container should be covered with a bag or glass and placed in a cool corner for about a couple of weeks. At the end of this period, it is transferred to a lighter and warmer place. If the seeds were not harvested from their own plants, but purchased in the store, they can be enclosed in a coated casing. Such granules should be spread over the soil surface and moistened generously with a spray bottle. If the shell does not begin to dissolve, but simply softens, you can lightly grind it with a thin stick. Further, the container is also closed with a bag.

After the sprouts appear, the bag should be removed. The soil in the container is moistened only as needed, trying to prevent moisture stagnation. After the seedlings grow up and they have several pairs of real leaves, they are dived into separate pots or glasses. It is much more difficult to transplant older plants - after the start of branching, it will be difficult to untangle the nearby shoots and you will have to plant the plants in the ground as a single group.

Before moving the seedlings outside, it must be hardened. Young plants do not tolerate frost. You can sow seeds in a greenhouse. This is done in early spring, until the end of April. Seeds are scattered over the surface of wet soil, pressed a little and covered with a film. While maintaining the temperature at + 20, seedlings appear in 2-3 weeks. Starting in May, young plants can be transferred to a permanent place.

Delosperma. Review of seedlings.


The delosperm shoot in contact with the soil can form its own roots. This property is also used for reproduction: it allows you to immediately get a ready-made stalk with roots. Garden plants can be cut both in spring and throughout the summer season, and domestic plants - all year round.

Having cut off a part of the stem with its own roots, it is immediately planted in a flower bed or in a pot. Such a cutting will be accepted very quickly. You can also cut the cuttings using regular shoots that have not formed roots. For this, stems no longer than 8 cm are suitable. To dry the cut site, they are kept in the air for a couple of hours, and then planted in sandy soil. Cactus substrates can also be used. The container with the seedling is placed in the sun and watered only as needed, so that moisture does not get on the foliage. Such cuttings take root from several days to a couple of weeks. It is also possible to pre-germinate the roots of the cuttings in a glass of water. After their formation, a new plant is immediately planted in a permanent place.

Delosperma can also be propagated by dividing the bush.

Planting delosperm in open ground

Before planting delosperm in open ground, you need to make sure the quality of the soil. It must necessarily have a drainage layer and be sufficiently loose. You can additionally add the necessary elements to it: for example, sand or peat. Seedlings are distributed over the flower bed, maintaining a half-meter distance. Such a long distance is due to the fact that delosperms grow very quickly, increasing both the aerial part and the root system. Such an indent will allow the plants not to interfere with each other, and they will quickly be able to form a single rug.

Diseases and pests

Delosperma is highly resistant to pests and major flower diseases. All problems with its cultivation, as a rule, are associated with mistakes in choosing a place or caring for a flower. Extremely cool and rainy weather can also be the culprit of decay.

If a weakened plant is nevertheless attacked by garden pests, you can deal with them as follows:

  • Soap solution will save from the attack of small colonies of aphids. One bar of laundry soap is dissolved in 5 liters of hot water. After cooling, the mixture is applied to the bushes.
  • The same recipe will help to cope with spider mites. Noticeable pests are removed from the bush with a cotton pad dipped in a solution. The purified plants are treated with acaricides.
  • For mealybugs, specialized preparations containing cypermethrin will help.

Delosperm wintering period

Home plants

In winter, homemade delosperma has a rest. It is advisable to keep the pot with it cool (about +10 degrees). Such plants are watered about once a month, trying not to allow the soil to completely dry out. Top dressing in winter is not carried out - stimulation of growth at this time will only lead to the appearance of frail and thin stems.

If a cool wintering is not possible for Delosperm, the flower should be kept in the sun so that it does not lose its decorative effect.

Garden plants

It is recommended to grow only frost-resistant types of delosperm in the garden. In the open field, such plants can withstand temperatures as low as -20 degrees. Spring thaw poses a much greater danger to them. To protect the bushes from excess moisture, you can build special shelters. The bushes are covered with spruce branches or fallen leaves, and on top are covered with empty wooden boxes, set upside down. On top of the box, you can stretch a film or a layer of insulation.

To preserve the plants in the fall, you can also dig up some bushes and transplant them into containers that will stand at home. For such plants, a very light and dry, but slightly cool place is selected. In the spring, cuttings can be cut from them for faster reproduction.

If the Delosperm is grown as an annual, it is not necessary to cover it.

Types and varieties of delosperm with photos

There are over 150 different types and decorative forms of delosperm. The overwhelming majority of them are thermophilic varieties that can grow only at home, but some are considered frost-hardy enough to be placed in the garden. Gardeners became interested in this plant at the end of the 18th century. They are great for rockeries - delosperm bushes do well next to easily heated stones. Due to the rare need for watering, it is best to plant such plants next to similar light-loving succulents: purslane, stonecrop, rejuvenated.

Delosperma profusely flowering (Delosperma floribundum)

The flowers are small in size and showy two-tone color with a white center and pink or purple edges of the petals. The foliage has a pale green tone. The bushes begin to bloom in the first year, so they can also be grown as annuals. It has both thermophilic, not tolerating small frosts, and quite winter-hardy varieties.

Delosperma Stardust

One of the varieties of abundant flowering delosperm. It is used as a garden plant and is able to withstand a fairly severe frost, but needs a good shelter from moisture. It has flowers with a white center and light lilac-pink edges. In some varieties, the petals are colored in shades of lilac.

Delosperma Cooperi

A frost-resistant variety that can withstand temperatures down to -17 degrees. The diameter of the branchy bushes can reach half a meter in diameter with a small height of 15 cm. It differs in larger (up to 5 cm) flowers with monochromatic silky petals of bright purple shades and a pale yellow center. Thick but flexible foliage is gray-green in color.

Twisted Delosperma (Delosperma Congestum)

The species is unpretentious and can withstand frosts down to -20 degrees. Forms a low bush with squat shoots covering the ground with a dense carpet. The flowers are bright yellow. Flowering begins in May. During flowering, the leaves are almost completely hidden under the flowers. At the same time, in the fall, the green color of the foliage is replaced by burgundy.

Delosperma Tradescantioides

It has long creeping stems and larger foliage. In elevated areas, it can perform the functions of an ampelous plant. It has small delicate flowers with white, slightly transparent petals.

Delosperma Dyeri

A hybrid variety that can withstand severe frosts down to almost -30 degrees, but it is successfully grown as a houseplant.It has a large number of varieties, but the main color of the petals is a bright red-orange or carmine color with a white center.

Delosperma Jewel

The species includes several varieties "Pearl of the Desert", differing in color of flowers. Among them are "Pomegranate" with a white-pink center and pomegranate petals, "Opal" with lilac petals and "Ruby" - with reddish-purple flowers.

Delosperma Cloudy (Delosperma Nubigenum)

The bush forms many creeping stems that quickly form a carpet-like covering. Its height usually does not exceed 10 cm. It is considered one of the most frost-resistant, it can survive frosts down to -23 degrees. It has small flowers with shiny petals of yellow, amber or bright orange color. Small oval foliage acquires a bronze color by autumn.

Delosperma Sutherlandii

Low-growing bushes can survive frosts down to -23 degrees. Dark green foliage and stems are slightly pubescent. It has large flowers with bright lilac-pink petals with a pale halo at the base and a pale yellow center.

Delosperma Lehmannii

The foliage of this species is thicker and fleshy and has a light gray-green color. Forms unusual pyramid-shaped shoots, on the tops of which light yellow flowers bloom. This species is most often used as a houseplant rather than a garden plant.

Delosperma: sowing and cultivation in the home and garden

author Victoria / tamaravn, author's photo

Delosperma is a succulent plant with delightful flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm. The succulent leaves of Delosperm are thick, fleshy, they are almost cylindrical or oval.

Genus Delosperma (Delosperma) belongs to the family of Aisaceae, or mesembriantems, and has over a hundred species native to Eastern and Southern Africa. Close relatives of Delosperm are unusual plants with numerous bright flowers and leaves shining in the sun, more known to Russian flower growers - dorotheanthus, mesembriantemum, or "crystal grass".

Despite the fact that Delosperm has very small seeds, it is quite easy to grow seedlings from them.
In 2016, I sowed abundant flowering Delosperma (Delosperma floribundum) on seedlings. Indoor-grown delosperm bloomed after winter dormancy by early February (see title photo).

There are several types of delosperm seeds in our seed shops.

Yaskolka: description, botanical information

Yaskolka belongs to the carnation family. It did not give gardeners the same variety of ornamental crops as the Compositae family, but all of its representatives are interesting. Relatives of yaskolka:

  • carnations,
  • adonis,
  • gypsophila,
  • lichnis.

Not all chrysalis are cultivated as garden plants, but those that have entered the gardener's arsenal are adorable. They are herbaceous, actively growing, creepers, ideal for carpeting. Stems are straight, often pubescent, the color of small leaves is special - it seems almost silvery. The flowers are white, five-petaled, with small incisions at the tips. During the flowering period, the curtains (flower beds) of Yaskolok resemble snowdrifts.

Felt flowers have five petals, each of which is incised at the tip

In the wild, chippings are found in different parts of the world:

  • temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere (Eurasia, North Africa, North America)
  • hotter regions of Africa or South America, but only in higher elevations, where it is cooler
  • Australia (the plant was introduced to this continent and ran wild).

Interesting fact: Alpine shingle is the northernmost of the flowering plants that live on land. It was found on Lockwood Island (Canadian Arctic Archipelago). To the north, only mosses, algae, and lichens are found.

Chickweed blooms in May, fades in a month, but retains its decorative effect until autumn due to the beautiful abundant foliage of menthol color.

Even a non-flowering chrysalis looks decorative - a solid silvery-green carpet

Variety of names

The scientific name for jaskolka is Cerástium (cerastium), which comes from the Latin word meaning "horned." The flower received this name because of the small horns that have the fruits of certain species. Of course, such an abstract name could not satisfy amateur gardeners who prefer more apt names. Abroad, yaskolka is called snow in summer, which translates as "snow in summer", or silver carpet - a silver carpet. Florists from Russia call continuous plantings of plants "white rivers", "white streams".




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April calls to the garden and garden. April concerns of gardeners

Work will begin soon in the garden and vegetable garden. April does not give boredom to gardeners and gardeners. They have a lot to do - cleaning the garden, pruning trees, processing the soil. Show in full.

The calendar spring started in March, but the really warm weather usually only sets in April. On such warm days, gardeners gradually begin spring work.

Active work in the garden and vegetable garden will begin very soon. Mid-April is the time to start gardening and gardening work. We need to take care of cleaning the garden, pruning trees, and treating the soil. In the third decade of April, dill, carrots, lingonberries, and some other cold-resistant crops are planted. It is advisable to plan the work in advance so that you do not have to do everything in a hurry.

Experienced gardeners start sowing cold-resistant crops as soon as coltsfoot blooms. Early cold-resistant crops include lettuce, radishes, dill, celery, carrots, and parsley. The best time to plant potatoes is a month after coltsfoot bloom.

Lettuce seeds sprout at a temperature of +5 degrees, tolerate low temperatures up to minus six degrees. This stability allows sowing lettuce in early April. The salad is sown both on a separate bed and between other crops. They begin to sow the salad in early April and, if desired, repeat the sowing every two weeks for almost the entire summer season.

The carrot sowing bed is prepared in advance. A week before sowing the seeds, the soil on the bed is watered with a hot solution of Fitosporin (dissolved in hot water), the bed is covered with plastic wrap to maintain moisture and warm up. The best place for carrots is the beds where potatoes, cucumbers, onions, beets, tomatoes, and legumes were grown last season.

Carrots can be sown in a variety of ways.

Dry method
Carrot seeds are poured into prepared grooves, sprinkled with soil.

Mixed way
Mix carrot seeds, radish, a little sand. Fill in the prepared grooves as in the first method. Radish seeds can be substituted with spinach or lettuce. Such seeding guarantees a uniform seeding and eliminates further thinning of the carrots.

Carrot-onion method
When sowing, alternate carrot seeds with onion sets. This method will facilitate the weeding process and, which is also very important, will protect the orange beauty from pests.

It is important to maintain a distance between the carrot rows of at least 20 cm, it is advisable to maintain a distance of 2 cm between the seeds.The seed planting depth is 2 cm.

The optimal distance between the rows of onions is 30 cm, between the plants at least 3 cm.The seeds are embedded in the soil to a depth of 2 centimeters.

Radish is not afraid of the cold. Radish seeds can be sown as soon as the soil thaws. Such sowing will allow you to get an early harvest, and it will also save the radish from the red-colored flea.
Before sowing, the radish seeds are sorted out, soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate, and the seeds that have floated to the surface are removed.
Radishes are sown in well-loosened soil, to a depth of two centimeters at a distance of 4 cm.

Subsequently, you can re-sow radish seeds until the second half of May. But at a later date, it is not recommended to repeat sowing due to the poor quality of root crops.

To get a harvest of radish in summer, plant seeds are sown in the second half of April. Sowing is carried out in a well-loosened, moist soil, the seeds are planted in 3 pieces, the distance between the nests should be at least 15 cm. The radish is planted in a heap in order to leave the strongest sprout after germination, the rest are harvested. After sowing, the radish needs regular, abundant watering.

If you decide to plant lingonberries in your garden, do not miss the optimal planting time. Lingonberries are planted in late April or early May, in autumn.

Lingonberries are propagated by cuttings. In the first fifteen days after planting, regular watering is carried out. Subsequently, the plant is watered as needed.

No organic fertilizer is required for lingonberries. The soil should be acidic, light sandy loam, drained. Choose well-lit areas for planting lingonberries.

Be prepared to water the lingonberries abundantly if the summer turns out to be dry.

To enjoy the first harvest of lingonberries, you will have to wait for the second season after planting. All your worries will pay off handsomely when the plant begins to bear fruit.

If you are in doubt whether or not to plant lingonberries, read about its beneficial properties.

The plant is a natural antiseptic. Moreover, not only berries, but also lingonberry leaves have a beneficial effect. Lingonberry is good for the heart and blood vessels. Lingonberry fruits are a good prophylactic agent against diseases of the urinary tract, reduce the risk of oncological diseases, maintain visual acuity, and promote good digestion.

Quercetin, which is part of lingonberry, relieves inflammation. Lingonberry berries are recommended to use for arthritis, joint pain.

Lingonberries can be consumed by diabetics. Lingonberry normalizes blood flow, has a mild antispasmodic effect. Regular consumption of lingonberries will help lower cholesterol levels, blood pressure, and slow the progression of atherosclerosis.

Lingonberries help fight bacteria in the mouth, urinary tract infections.

If you have the opportunity and place on the site, be sure to plant this useful plant!

Strawberry. Mistakes of a novice gardener. The basics

It seems to many novice lovers of sweet berries that large-fruited garden strawberries can grow on their own without leaving. It is enough to plant it, and the harvest is secured for at least 5 years. Show in full. Like any other culture, it requires attention and proper agricultural technology. What are the mistakes of novice berry growers?

List of invalid steps

To seasoned gardeners, the truths covered in the strawberry trilogy may seem simple and don't require long explanations. For a novice berry lover, they will help to save time for their own mistakes, to understand the reasons for failure.

Let's start the analysis of errors with a general list:

• purchase of planting material
• time and method of plantation establishment
• use of organic matter
• mineral fertilizers
• timely watering
• mulching
• supports for berries
• mowing foliage
• wintering in the northern regions
• fashion for remontant varieties.
Let's dwell on each item in more detail.

Purchase of planting material

The purchase of planting material on the market, in the store is a responsible event. You should take it seriously. The future of the harvest depends on what you buy.
What parameters are paid attention to in the first place:
1. Root system. A good "beard" indicates the developed seedlings of the first mustache.
2. Leaves. Clean, rich green plates are the key to healthy seedlings. Spots, dots from injections, holes are signs of the presence of diseases, pests.
3. Point of growth. Living cone with rudiments of leaves, peduncles.
Standard seedlings consist of 1-3 expanded plates with a dense, fibrous root system.

Use of organic

To improve the quality of the soil, many gardeners apply rotted organic fertilizers under Victoria. If there is a beetle on the site (the beetle larva is a fat white worm with short legs, a brown head), then “tasty plant food” will attract him to the berry plantation.
Together with organic matter, it can nibble the roots of strawberries. Therefore, it is better to exclude rotted manure, compost from weeds from the use. To loosen the soil, use peat, river sand. Carefully choose a pest when digging a site.

Boarding time

Spring breeding work is always more effective than autumn work. In recent years, frosts, and without snow, come unexpectedly. Sometimes plants do not have enough time to restore the root system, prepare for wintering, accumulate a supply of nutrients.
There is a proverb: "In the spring, and the stick blooms." We harvest fresh arcs for greenhouses in the spring. So the leaves bloom on them when they stand under the films. This is what "life force" means. The same processes occur with seedlings.
So try to divide and replant in the spring. Then the young will have a whole summer in stock to recover. Do not separate the whiskers from mother plants in the fall. Better to play it safe and leave everything the same until the start of the next season.

Method of placement on the site
Establish a new plantation in areas level with the main soil. Leaving significant row spacings between two adjacent rows. Setting the distance between neighbors is 30-40 cm in a checkerboard pattern.
Do not plant seedlings on the ridges, as many do. Here, in dry summers, Victoria suffers more from a lack of moisture, it can easily freeze out even not in winter, but in late autumn. When there is no snow, but severe frosts immediately set in.
I had such an experience of planting in the ridges. For several years, the bushes grew without problems. But in one year, all the old bushes froze out, and the mustache that grew on the paths (in the lowland) survived. Therefore, there was something to repair the planting.
Sunny areas illuminated throughout the day are the best place to place plantings. A full-fledged harvest of large berries is formed here. In partial shade, next to tall trees or shrubs, plants feel depressed, there is a shortage of sweet products.

The rest of the errors, highlighted according to the list, will be considered in the next article.

Fragrant garden jasmine - humble mock-orange

The delicate aroma of the mock orange of a rare grower leaves you indifferent. And snow-white flowers against the background of a bright green cap of leaves very much decorate the garden area. But why some florists Show in full. shrubs bloom luxuriantly, while others have only a few meager inflorescences? Let's talk about how to help garden jasmine reach its full potential and bloom with full force. And also how to propagate the plant and what kind of care it needs.

Sanitary and thinning spring pruning
In the spring, while the bush has not yet had time to turn green, you need to have time to carry out sanitary, rejuvenating and thinning pruning. But business must be approached wisely. Since, having entered the taste, you can completely remain without flowering. Because the mock-orange blooms on the upper growths and on the outer branches.

So why prune, you ask? The fact is that too thick a bush also negatively affects the ability of a shrub to bloom. In addition, thickening leads to the weakening and development of diseases.

When starting pruning, follow these rules:
• cut off broken twigs
• remove diseased parts
• prune old dry branches
• get rid of thin growth
• cut the branches that grow inside the bush.

If you carry out this procedure annually, you will notice that the flowering has become more abundant, and the flowers will be larger. In addition, it is a good prevention of powdery mildew.

Reproduction of chubushnik in different ways
Chubushnik is propagated in several different ways. For this, rooting of cuttings, and reproduction by layering, and dividing a shrub are suitable.

If propagated by layering, then during spring pruning, do not remove all young growth. Leave some young twigs that can be bent to the ground and pinned down to give roots.

Reproduction by cuttings begins in the first half of summer, after flowering. To do this, a young shoot with a heel is broken off from the branch. The upper part of the shoot is cut off so that only two pairs of leaves remain on the cuttings. The lower pair of leaves is removed and the upper pair of leaves is cut in half.

Then it is advisable to dip the tip into a root formation stimulator. After that, the cuttings are placed on rooting in a pot or glass with soil. It is better to take poor soil. And it bursts into a transparent cut-off bottle with a cap.

Cuttings can be left to root outside at a temperature of about +20 degrees, but put the pots in the shade, or put in a greenhouse. To prevent the cuttings from rotting, it is impossible to overmoisten the soil. The fact that the time to water has not yet come will be indicated by the condensate that has collected on the inner walls of the plastic bottle.

Caring for garden jasmine chubushnik
The rest of the chubushnik is unpretentious. It can grow on a wide variety of soils and in any corner of the garden. But keep in mind that if you are counting on abundant flowering, then you do not need to hide the shrub in the shade. For such purposes, it is better to give him a place in the sun.

If the chubushnik was planted in a shady corner, then it doesn't matter. After trimming, it is quite possible to transplant it to another place. Or postpone this event until the time comes to multiply it by dividing - then you will land in more suitable conditions.

Chubushnik hibernates well. Can do without shelter. But it is still better to mulch the root zone. And collect and tie the twigs themselves. Otherwise, they can bend and break under the snow.

Garden jasmine can be done without feeding. But if fertilizer is applied once a year, there will be no harm. But it is better to take a complex mineral fertilizer and avoid pure nitrogen fertilizing, otherwise the bush will attack aphids. But even this trouble can be prevented by treating the shrub in early spring.

Currant septoria: how to prevent and fight?

Are the currant foliage covered with whitish-brown spots with black dots in the middle? And after starting to wrinkle en masse, curl up and fall off ahead of time? Show in full. Most likely, the bushes have undergone a fungal disease called septoria. About what preventive measures to take, as well as how to deal with the disease - in the material

Symptoms and causes of the disease
Septoria is a fairly common currant disease caused by the Septoria fungus. The first symptoms of the disease are small whitish-brown spots with black blotches, which, if untreated, very quickly increase in size and, ultimately, affect the entire leaf. Further, the foliage folds and falls off, and the trunk acquires a brownish color. The outcome of the disease is extremely unfavorable - a decrease in yield up to 50%, death of bushes and damage to other crops, including gooseberries, grapes, pears and garden flowers (peony, phlox, etc.).

One of the causes of septoria is a mild winter, accompanied by sharp temperature changes. Also, risk factors are dense plantings, severe frosts, waterlogged soil, lack of sanitary and formative pruning, care. The fungus develops most actively in warm weather with high humidity. The optimum temperature for development is 20C. In this case, the spores of the fungus are transferred to other plants by means of water and wind. It should be noted that the pathogen is capable of hibernating in the affected fallen leaves, and with the onset of warmth it is taken for a mass infection.

Preventive measures against septoria

It is better not to allow than to prevent - this is the main condition for the successful cultivation of currants. In early spring, it is important to inspect the bushes for damage, carry out sanitary pruning, because weak specimens most often get sick. It is equally important to observe the distance between the bushes when planting, to get rid of the remnants of fallen leaves and diseased branches by burning. Do not forget about fertilizers, because top dressing increases the resistance of currants to diseases. Weeding and loosening is also a great way to keep your bushes healthy.

Disease control methods

The main way to combat septoria is to treat the bushes with fungicides. The first treatment is recommended in early spring with the beginning of the growing season. Then the treatments are carried out at intervals of 1-2 weeks or less, taking into account the period of the protective properties of a particular drug. In the fight against septoria, the drug Homecin is effective. It belongs to the category of contact fungicides. Currant bushes are treated with it before flowering, re-processing is carried out immediately after harvest.

Phthalan is also effective in the fight against septoria. He, like the previous drug, belongs to contact fungicides. Its action is aimed at destroying the plasma of fungal cells. It is not very poisonous, but you need to use it carefully. Only with gloves, mask and goggles. Strictly observing the proportions according to the instructions, keeping children and pets away from the bushes after processing.

No less effective in the fight against septoria - Ridomil. It is a systemic and contact fungicide. It gives a quick and lasting healing effect, even in advanced cases. Completely destroys pathogenic fungi and eliminates foci of infection. It is necessary to use Ridomil, as in the previous case, only in protective equipment. It is important to note that in addition to pathogenic fungi, the drug is prone to the destruction of beneficial soil. In order to prevent soil poisoning, it is recommended to use the drug strictly according to the instructions and not often.

Iron vitriol is also used to treat currants against septoria. As a rule, 25 grams of the drug is taken per liter of water. Spraying is carried out at the beginning of the growing season, and then in the fall - immediately after the foliage has fallen. It is not forbidden to use the Hom preparation for treating bushes. It is a broad spectrum fungicide. After processing the bushes, it lasts about 2-2.5 weeks. Hom neutralizes the activity of pathogens without penetrating into plant cells.

Source: ..

Choosing a place and planting a splinter

When planting any plant, always consider where it lives in the wild and what conditions it likes. Yaskolka has not undergone active selection, like roses or chrysanthemums, therefore its garden forms do not differ much from wild ones in their tastes. In nature, the flower loves high mountains open to the sun and winds, respectively, the plant is not afraid of meager stony soil, but at the same time it does not tolerate stagnant moisture. Yaskolka is a typical "seasonal", that is, it perfectly tolerates the annual climate change in the Middle Lane:

  • no need to worry about sheltering the plant for the winter, it survives frosts perfectly
  • narrow pubescent leaves help the chickweed to save moisture, therefore, it can easily endure a slight drought.


Choose a sunny, well-heated place. The southern slopes of the support walls and alpine slides are very good. The plant is not southern, but it is a real "sun lover". In the shade, the shingle will not please with such lush "snowdrifts", although it is permissible to grow it in partial shade or light shade. An excellent option is an openwork shadow from deciduous trees. But even if you plant a plant in a dimly lit place (for example, next to a fern), it is unlikely that it will die. Yaskolka is a "lady with character". She herself will try to find a suitable site for herself, the whips of her shoots will rush to the sunniest places that are nearby.

Chickweed will grow very well on the southern slopes of the support walls, alpine slides

The soil

Chings, being typical alpine plants, prefer loose, moisture and air permeable soil. Sandy loam, sand are well suited, with a stretch - loam. If the soil on your site is not the same, you can make it suitable for growing chives by choosing an individual composition:

  • add compost or humus to poor, insufficiently nutritious soil at the rate of 5–7 kg per 1 sq. m
  • add sand to clay soil so that the clay content from 80% becomes no more than 30% - you will get a loam suitable for growing chippings
  • on rocky soils, the shrapnel will also grow well, but it may periodically lack moisture and nutrition - add a little peat.

Will the chrysalis grow in ordinary garden soil? Yes, the author of the article has had occasion to grow it without any soil preparation. The plant is unpretentious, quickly mastered, grows well and blooms, no worse than on nutritious sandy loam. However, in winter and spring with difficult Siberian weather (frequent temperature drops, thaws, frosts), the chickweed can easily get wet or wet, the flower bed will become rather sloppy. Therefore, if you do not want to take risks, it is better to immediately prepare the soil correctly.

Landing order

Planting the hodgepodge is not particularly difficult. It is necessary to act in this way:

    The pre-planting treatment of the site is carried out 2-4 weeks before planting the plant. The site is dug up at least on a shovel bayonet. All the necessary supplements are added.

When preparing the site for planting the chippers, the earth is dug onto the bayonet of the shovel

It is convenient to make holes for chicks with a conventional planter for bulbous plants.

The chimney takes root very easily, so you can bury the seedlings during transplanting without fear of damaging the roots.

Keep in mind that chippings are capable of "hammering" many others plants: these are aggressors that take up space very quickly. The height of the bush is 20 cm, but the diameter can reach 70 cm. By flowering, it becomes three times larger than it was when it was planted. The root system is strong and active.

If you are creating a creek bed, it is enough to plant several seedlings in one hole at a distance of 30 cm from each other - it will grow by itself. If the flowerbed is narrow (for example, its width is only 40–50 cm), it is enough to plant one line of yaskolok in the center every 15–30 cm (depending on the quality of the seedlings).

If you do not want the chippings to grow too much, take care of root barriers. Plant plants:

  • in the crevices between stones in rockeries
  • next to the support walls sheathed in stone or brick
  • in the flowerbed areas fenced with pieces of slate.

The author of the article uses a convenient, albeit rare, method of planting jaskolok in rather wide pots or containers, which can then be placed on the terrace or even buried in any flower bed. I really like the idea of ​​an ever-changing garden. The next year, plants in such containers can be dug in in a different way, combined with other crops, and a completely new composition can be created. At the same time, the naturalness of the garden will not suffer at all - after digging, the containers are mulched with ordinary earth or decorative crumbs. The only caveat is that you should take care of the enhanced nutrition of such plants.

Choosing neighbors

Do not plant this flower next to small-bulbous plants that bloom in May:

  • crocuses,
  • muscari,
  • bulbous irises.

Feel free to combine it with large bulbs that bloom a little earlier or later:

  • lilies,
  • tulips,
  • some varieties of daffodils,
  • rhizome irises.

Chippings do an excellent job of being a ground cover plant around large bulbous crops such as tulips.

Perennials from seeds: the intricacies of stratification

It is not always possible to purchase or exchange planting material of some exclusive perennial plant from a familiar florist. Especially if you decide to design an alpine slide, or even a rolling pin that is fashionable today. Rare "hill" specimens cannot be bought on the market just like that, because they grow slowly, planting material is very expensive. You can contact a collector from another city, agree to send the desired items, but keep in mind that some of them, for example, Vitaliana primrose-flowered (Vitaliana primuflora), absolutely do not tolerate the shipment. And sometimes it’s just interesting to get a plant from a tiny seed that will delight you for many years. Therefore, it makes sense to grow your favorite specimens from seeds.

But before you start growing any perennial and achieve the desired result, in addition to reading the information on the back of the bag, you should consult the reference literature. Does this or that kind require stratification? You will see that this stratification is essential for the seeds of most perennial crops.

What is this process? This is the effect on seeds of low temperatures in conditions close to natural in winter. This is necessary to bring them out of their dormant state.

After all, as happens in nature - a perennial plant drops seeds to the ground, they go through a natural cooling period and sprout in early spring. Someone (for example, double monarda, rudbeckia) can be "fooled" by sowing seeds for seedlings in March-April and seeing them bloom next year, and some crops simply will not sprout if they are not sown before winter or artificial winter is arranged , that is, do not stratify.

Moreover, sometimes one season is not enough, the seeds of some crops after the first stratification procedure do not germinate and you have to leave crops until the next season, that is, lay them on stratification again and see the result only after two wintering periods. This can happen, for example, with a carnea break (Androsace carnea).

Seeds of perennial plants familiar to gardeners can be found on sale without any problems. But keep in mind that you have a great chance of growing something different from what is shown in the picture.

Remember the lessons of genetics - there is no guarantee that the offspring of hybrid forms (F1) will repeat the characteristics of the mother plant. However, among the grown specimens, there may also be those that surpass their parents. This is actively used by breeders when breeding new varieties and hybrids.

However, when growing offspring from a variety, there is every chance of getting what you want. Let me give you an example from my last crops. 80% seedlings rudbeckia amber bloomed exactly the same as in the picture (brown center, yellow tips of the petals), and the rest were pure yellow. At the same time all Platycodons Blue Lake and Pink Florist, as well as different types and varieties of sedum reproduced maternal qualities exactly.

According to the information on the back of the seed bag, platycodons, sedums, saxifrage, rudbeckia You can sow not only in the fall before winter, but also in the spring in March-April at home in containers or directly into open ground in May. That is, do not stratify. Firstly, directly into the open ground is inconvenient, because small seedlings are lost, they are quickly clogged by weeds. Secondly, these plants will bloom after sowing for at least the second year. And after stratification was carried out, the percentage of germination of the seeds of these plants sown by me was much higher, and they all bloomed in the year of sowing. And, thirdly, there are so many crops in the spring, it is better to devote a couple of winter evenings to this business, planting seeds for stratification, and in the same March to get ready-made shoots.

However, there are several "buts". For example, as Natalya Konstantinova (Moscow), a gardener-collector, breeder told me, there is absolutely no point in growing hosts from seeds, unless, of course, you are pursuing the goal of engaging in breeding work and developing a new variety. The fact is that seedlings usually do not retain varietal characteristics, stratification should be long (3-4 months), seedlings develop very slowly.

And the seeds thiarella and geyher sprout well and without stratification, sown in mid-March - early April. Heicher seedlings will also be diverse.In general, it is more advisable to propagate Heuchera vegetatively, but if there is no large mother plant, then a new unprecedented specimen can be grown from seeds. And sometimes banal green-leaved, as happened in my case.

On the bag there was a photograph of Heuchera flowers against an incomprehensible background of dark leaves with the signature “Heuchera carmine red”. Here is how Natalya commented on this event: “There is obvious photoshop on the bag. "Carmine-red" Heuchera does not exist. There is a kind of "blood-red" (Heuhera sanguinea). This type of heuchera is distinguished by its green foliage with a light silvery pattern and bright red, coral or pink flowers. Most likely, the seedlings of blood-red heuchera grew from these seeds. "

But back to cultures that need stratification. Again with a few examples. Aquilegia, dicenter a cooling period of 2-3 weeks is exceptional. Seeds should be "chilled" for about 2 months Dzhungarian swimwear (Trollius dschungaricus), levisia coteledon (Lewisia cotyledon), Horispores Bunge (Chorispora bungeana), twisted delosperm (Delosperma congestum), alpine carnation (Dianthus alpinus), Edryanthus creeping (Edraianthus serpyllifolius), bellflower saxifrage (Campanula saxifraga), birch-leaved bell (Campanula betulifolia), Incarvillea Mayra (Incarvillea mairei), gentian gusset (Gentiana asclepiadea). This means that the seeds of these plants can be laid for stratification in January.

And some plants need long-term stratification, that is, at least 3 months. This means that the seeds of these plants should be sown as early as December. For example, these are representatives: break carnea (Androsace carnea), furry break (Androsace villosa), crested kolnik (Phyteuma comosum), gypsophila cephalic (Gypsophila cerastioides), jaundice adorable (Erysimum amoenum).

The art of stratification was taught to me by Lyudmila Kalashnikova, a flower grower-collector (Nizhny Novgorod), she also supplied exclusive “hill” plants with her own collected seeds. There is a lot in her garden, but her favorite "brainchild" is a rolling pin with wonderful representatives of the flora, which you can see in the photo.

Lyudmila Ivanovna empirically determined for herself that it is more convenient to stratify seeds not in a refrigerator, but under the snow in a garden plot, that is, to create conditions for seeds that are close to natural to the maximum.

We will assume that we are laying plant seeds for stratification in mid-December. That is, in general, this should be done when a stable snow cover is established, not earlier. But there should be no frosts in -30 in the near future. An unnecessarily abrupt change in conditions is absolutely useless.

It is important to select suitable seed containers. Thin plastic containers for salads, pastries are suitable, always with a lid. Holes must be made in the bottom and in the lid of the jar. The bottom has a larger diameter than the lid. It is more convenient to do this with a drill with a thin drill, putting together several containers and drilling holes in several at once in one go. Why are these holes needed - in the process of stratification on the street, in addition to frosts, thaws will also occur, during which natural moisture will be able to freely enter the container through the holes in the lid, without allowing the seedlings to dry out, and if it is in excess in the container, it will freely flow down through the drainage holes.

Expanded clay as drainage at the bottom of the containers can not be laid, but the choice of soil should be approached responsibly. The soil should be of good quality, lightweight, breathable and not able to float or cake. It is better to buy ready-made, and spend money by purchasing Green Verde (preferably marked "For sowing seeds" or "For growing seedlings") or Terra Vita. Soil of your own production (from your garden) should not be used - it cakes, becomes like a stone and there are a lot of fungi and bacteria in it, which can easily become a source of disease. And the purchased soil is nevertheless properly processed and its structure brought to the required level. Additionally, you do not need to add perlite or vermiculite.

Before laying for stratification, the seeds of all perennials should be soaked for a day in a Heteroauxin solution. Yes, it is labor intensive, but at the same time you increase the germination rate of expensive seeds. From a white hygroscopic cloth (so that dark seeds are clearly distinguishable on a white background), you need to cut out squares, moisten them in a solution of Heteroauxin. Prepare the solution like this - 2 tablets of Heteroauxin, which are in a standard package, crush into powder, dissolve in 1 teaspoon of alcohol and dissolve the resulting concentrate in 60-80 ml of water. In the resulting solution and wet the pieces of fabric.

Spread the seeds of perennials in half a piece of cloth, close the second. Place the seed cloth in the clip bag.

Fasten the package and put in empty prepared jars for a day. Do not forget to put tags in the jars indicating the name of the culture and the sowing date.

After a day, the seeds should be taken out, for example, in the evening, unfold the fabric, let the seeds dry until the morning, so that it is more convenient to sow.

Pour the soil into the container not to the very top, you need to leave a little air above the ground and space for the growth of "shot" seedlings.

Pour boiling water over the soil and sow seeds on warm soil (so that the hand can endure), spreading them with a toothpick, pressing them to the ground.

You do not need to sprinkle the seeds, they should sprout in the light. The exception is large seeds, such as Mair's Incarvillea. They need to be lightly sprinkled with earth and spray the surface from a spray bottle.

Watch carefully so that the seeds are not yet hatched. If there are already sprouts, negative temperatures will destroy them. Such seeds must be sown and left in a cool, bright room - on a veranda, in a warmed loggia or in a heated greenhouse at low positive temperatures (+10 degrees) until spring. Supplementing seedlings is a must.

It remains to close the containers with lids, take them to the garden, choose a place that is not flooded with melt water in the spring, dig a trench in the snow (it is advisable to get to the ground so that later, when the snow melts, the jars do not fall), place containers with crops there, throw snow again and leave until the snow melts.

Usually you have to take out the jars in mid-March. Some of them by this time may already hatch, and some will still “sleep”. But if possible, you need to do this earlier, because seedlings may already appear and it is advisable to track this moment and take the jars out into the light of day.

Jars taken out of the snow should be brought into a greenhouse or another cool, but not cold, room and placed under additional lighting. Sometimes the seedlings pop out with a brush within a day or two after being transferred to other conditions and begin to grow quite actively.

When they grow up, after about a month, the seedlings must be laid out in a greenhouse (approximately at the end of April - beginning of May), which in summer will protect them from drying out and the scorching sun. High temperatures should not be there! It is advisable for the summer to replace the film on the greenhouse with a white spunbond.

And in late August - early September, plants can be planted in a permanent place.

Photo: Lyudmila Kalashnikova, Tatiana Molodtsova

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