Powdery Mildew Aster Control – How To Get Rid Of Powdery Mildew On Asters

By: Amy Grant

Asterflowers are cheery star-shaped blossoms that bloom in the fall whenother flowering plants are finished for the season. While asters are hardy,easy to grow and are, indeed, a welcome sight in the early fall, they do havetheir share of problems. One such issue, powdery mildew on asters, causesdamage to the plant and rendering it unsightly. Treating aster powdery mildew relieson early identification of the symptoms of this fungal disease.

Aster Powdery Mildew Symptoms

Powderymildew is a fungal disease caused by Erysiphe cichoracearum. It is one of the most common diseases foundin plants and afflicts not only flowers but vegetables and woody plants aswell.

The first indication of the disease is a white, powderygrowth visible on the upper leaves. This white powder is made up of threads offungal tissue (mycelium) and mats of asexual spores (condia). Infected youngleaves become distorted and new growth may be stunted. Infected buds often failto open. Leaves may wither and die. The disease is most prevalent in the springand fall.

Powdery Mildew Aster Control

Powdery mildew fungal spores are easily transmitted viawater and air movement. Infected plants do not need to be under stress orinjured for this fungal disease to afflict them, and the infection process onlytakes between 3-7 days.

The pathogen overwinters in infected plant debris andsurvives on weed hosts and other crops. Conditions fostering infection are arelative humidity greater than 95%, moderate temps of 68-85 F. (16-30 C.) andcloudy days.

Keep an eye out for any signs of powdery mildew on asters.An epidemic can occur practically overnight, so it’s important to be vigilant.Remove any plant debris and disposeof any infected plants. Keep the areas surrounding the asters freefrom weeds and volunteer plants.

Otherwise, it is advisable to spray the plants with arecommended fungicide at the first sign of the disease or apply sulfur. Beaware that sulfur can damage plants if applied when temps are over 85 F. (30 C.).Powdery mildew can develop resistance to fungicides, with the exception ofsulfur, so be sure to alternate fungicide applications.

This article was last updated on

Fungus on Coneflowers

Related Articles

Coneflower (Echinacea spp.) is easily identified by its daisy-like blooms with slightly droopy petals and raised, cone-shaped centers. Although there are about nine species of this native American flower, gardeners most often grow E. purpurea and its many varieties. These range in color from the usual purple to shades of white to deep, reddish orange. Drought-tolerant, easy-care coneflowers grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 9, depending on species. The plant is generally trouble-free, but may occasionally fall prey to fungal infections.

How to Manage Pests

Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals

Powdery mildew, Sphaerotheca pannosa, on rose.

White patches of powdery mildew on euonymus leaf.

Powdery mildew, Erysiphe lagerstroemiae, on crape myrtle shoot.

Powdery mildew is a common disease on many types of plants and is prevalent under the diverse conditions found in many areas of California. Different powdery mildew fungi cause disease on different plants. These fungi tend to infect either plants in the same family or only one species of plant.


You can recognize this disease by the white, powdery mycelial and spore growth that forms on leaf surfaces and shoots and sometimes on flowers and fruits. Powdery mildews may infect new or old foliage. This disease can be serious on woody species such as rose, crape myrtle, and sycamore where it attacks new growth including buds, shoots, flowers, and leaves. New growth may be dwarfed, distorted, and covered with a white, powdery growth. Infected leaves generally die and drop from the plant earlier than healthy leaves.


All powdery mildew fungi require living plant tissue to grow. On perennial hosts such as roses, powdery mildew survives from one season to the next as vegetative strands in buds or as spherical fruiting bodies, called chasmothecia, on the bark of branches and stems.

Most powdery mildew fungi grow as thin layers of mycelium on the surface of the affected plant parts. Spores, which you can see with a hand lens, are part of the white, powdery appearance of this fungi and are produced in chains on upper or lower leaf surfaces or on flowers, fruits, or herbaceous stems. In contrast, downy mildew, another fungal disease that produces visible powdery growth, has spores that grow on branched stalks and look like tiny trees. Also, downy mildew spores occur mostly on the lower leaf surface. Environmental conditions that favor the growth of downy mildew are different from those that favor powdery mildew and include low temperatures of 50° to 70°F, a relative humidity of 90% or higher, and free moisture.

Wind carries powdery mildew spores to new hosts. Although relative humidity requirements for germination vary, all powdery mildew species can germinate and infect in the absence of free water. In fact, water on plant surfaces for extended periods inhibits germination and kills the spores of most powdery mildew fungi. Moderate temperatures of 60° to 80°F and shady conditions generally are the most favorable for powdery mildew development. Powdery mildew spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and sunlight, and leaf temperatures above 95°F may kill the fungus.


The best method of control is prevention. Avoiding the most susceptible cultivars, placing plants in full sun, and following good cultural practices will adequately control powdery mildew in many situations. Some ornamentals do require protection with fungicide sprays if mildew conditions are more favorable, especially susceptible varieties of rose and crape myrtle. (See Table 1.) For a list of other common ornamentals susceptible to powdery mildew, see Table 2.

Table 1. Host Plants and Control Measures for Powdery Mildew Species.
Fungus species Hosts Controls
Golovinomyces cichoracearum begonia, Composite family (chrysanthemum, dahlia, phlox, sunflower, and zinnia) water sprays fungicides if necessary
Erysiphe lagerstroemiae crape myrtle resistant cultivars
Sphaerotheca pannosa rose resistant cultivars fungicides if necessary
Table 2. Common Ornamentals Susceptible to Powdery Mildew.
Susceptible Plant
aster crape myrtle oak
azalea (deciduous) dahlia pansy
begonia (tuberous) delphinium phlox
calendula euonymus ranunculus
California poppy forget-me-not rose
China aster (Callistephus) gaillardia rhododendron
chrysanthemum hydrangea rudbeckia
Clarkia lilac snapdragons
columbine London plane tree sweet pea
coral bells (Heuchera) lupine verbena
corn flower mint vinca
cosmos monarda zinnia

Resistant Varieties

Cultivars resistant to powdery mildew are available for some susceptible plants including rose, crape myrtle, euonymus, and sycamore (Table 3). Choose resistant varieties to reduce the likelihood of having to apply sprays.

Table 3. Ornamentals with Resistant Cultivars.
Susceptible Plant Resistant Cultivars
crape myrtle those with Native American names, e.g., ‘Catawba,’ ‘Cherokee,’ ‘Hopi’
euonymus variegated varieties more resistant than nonvariegated types
London plane tree ‘Yarwood,’ ‘Columbia,’ ‘Liberty’
monarda ‘Marshall’s Delight,’ ‘Blaustrumph,’ ‘Colrain Red’
phlox Phlox maculata ‘Natasha,’ P. glaberrima ‘MorrisBerd,’ P. paniculata ‘Robert Poore,’ ‘David’
rose ‘Simplicity’ and ‘Meidiland’ roses, Rosa rugosa varieties
rhododendron R. yakushimanum, R. macrophyllum, R. ‘Nova Zembla,’ R. ‘Palestrina’
zinnia Pulcino and African zinnias

Cultural Practices

Shade and moderate temperatures favor most powdery mildews. Locate plants in sunny areas as much as possible, provide good air circulation, and avoid excess fertilizing or use a slow-release fertilizer. Overhead sprinkling actually may reduce the spread of powdery mildew, because it washes spores off the plant. Also, if spores land in water, they die. The best time to irrigate is mid-morning, so plants dry rapidly, reducing the likelihood of infections by other fungi, such as ones that cause rust or black spot on roses. As new shoots begin to develop on perennial plants, watch closely for signs of powdery mildew.

Fungicide Applications

In some situations, especially when growing roses, you may need to use fungicides, which function as protectants, eradicants, or both. A protectant fungicide prevents new infections from occurring, whereas an eradicant can kill an existing infection. Apply protectant fungicides to highly susceptible plants before the disease appears. Use eradicants at the earliest signs of the disease. Once mildew growth is extensive, controlling the situation with any fungicide becomes more difficult.


Several least-toxic fungicides are available, including horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil, sulfur, potassium bicarbonate, and the biological fungicide Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these materials are primarily preventive, although potassium bicarbonate has some eradicant activity. Oils work best as eradicants but also have some protectant activity.

To eradicate mild to heavy powdery mildew infections, use a horticultural oil such as JMS Stylet Oil, Saf-T-Side Spray Oil, Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil, or one of the plant-based oils such as neem oil (e.g., Powdery Mildew Killer) or jojoba oil (e.g., E-rase). Be careful, however, never to apply an oil spray within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray, or it may injure plants. Also, you never should apply oils when temperatures are above 90°F or to water-stressed plants. Some plants may be more sensitive than others, and the interval required between sulfur and oil sprays may need to be even longer. Always consult the fungicide label for any special precautions. Of the horticultural oils, JMS Stylet Oil is the most highly refined and therefore the least likely to damage plants, but it may be more difficult to obtain than the others.


Sulfur products have been used to manage powdery mildew for centuries but are effective only when applied before the disease appears. The best sulfur products to use for powdery mildew control in gardens are wettable sulfurs that are specially formulated with surfactants similar to those in dishwashing detergent (e.g., Safer Garden Fungicide). However, you shouldn’t use dishwashing detergent with sulfur. Additionally, sulfur can damage some ornamental cultivars. To avoid injuring any plant, do not apply sulfur when the temperature is near or higher than 90°F, and do not apply it within 2 weeks of an oil spray. Other sulfur products, such as liquid lime sulfur or sulfur dust, are much more difficult to use, irritate skin and eyes, and are limited in the types plants you safely can use them on.


Also available to licensed applicators only is a fungicide containing potassium bicarbonate (e.g., Kaligreen). Sprays of potassium bicarbonate can injure the plant, so use these products with caution.

Biological Fungicides

Biological fungicides (e.g., Serenade) are commercially available beneficial microorganisms formulated into a product that, when sprayed on the plant, destroys fungal pathogens. The active ingredient in Serenade is a bacterium, Bacillus subtilis, that helps prevent the powdery mildew from infecting the plant. These products have some effect in killing the powdery mildew organism but are not as effective as the oils or sulfur in controlling it.

Synthetic Fungicides

Myclobutanil (Immunox) also is available to the home gardener and functions as an eradicant and protectant against both powdery mildew and rust.

How to Use

Apply protectant fungicides to susceptible plants before or in the earliest stages of disease development. Once mildew growth is mild to moderate, it generally is too late for effective control with protectant fungicides. These are effective only on contact, so applications must thoroughly cover all susceptible plant parts. As plants grow and produce new tissue, additional applications may be necessary at 7- to 10-day intervals as long as conditions favor disease growth.

If mild to moderate powdery mildew is present, you can use horticultural and plant-based oils such as neem or jojoba oil.


Dreistadt, S. H., J. K. Clark, and M. L. Flint. 1994. Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs: An Integrated Pest Management Guide. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 3359.

Gubler, W. D., and D. J. Hirschfelt. 1992. Powdery Mildew. In Grape Pest Management. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 3343. pp 57-63.

McCain, A. H. 1994. Powdery Mildew. HortScript No. 3, Univ. Calif. Coop. Ext. Marin County.


Pest Notes: Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals
UC ANR Publication 7493

Authors: W. D. Gubler, Plant Pathology, UC Davis S. T. Koike, UC Cooperative Extension, Monterey Co.

Produced by UC Statewide IPM Program, University of California, Davis, CA 95616

PDF: To display a PDF document, you may need to use a PDF reader.

Statewide IPM Program, Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of California
All contents copyright © 2019 The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved.

For noncommercial purposes only, any Web site may link directly to this page. FOR ALL OTHER USES or more information, read Legal Notices. Unfortunately, we cannot provide individual solutions to specific pest problems. See our Home page, or in the U.S., contact your local Cooperative Extension office for assistance.

Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of California

How does powdery mildew survive and spread?

  • Powdery mildew fungi create dark round resting structures that contain and protect spores through the winter.
  • In spring, these resting structures break open, releasing spores that are spread by the wind. These spores start new infections on succulent, new growth.
  • Some species of powdery mildew fungi survive the winter in infected buds.
    • In spring, the young shoots growing from infected buds are covered with velvet-like white growth of powdery mildew.
  • The powdery mildew fungus grows into the plant to steal nutrients.
  • Powdery spores are produced in leaf spots throughout the growing season.
    • Spores spread by wind and start new infections within the plant or in neighboring plants.
  • Powdery mildew needs humid conditions to start new infections.
  • Spread of the disease is reduced by rain or irrigation.
  • Water on the leaves prevents the light airy spores from moving on the wind.

How to manage powdery mildew

Tolerate powdery mildew. Powdery mildew does not significantly affect the health of the tree or shrub and does not require management.

Powdery mildew resistant varieties are available for many ornamental shrubs. Choose disease resistant varieties for new plantings or as replacement plants.

Do not overcrowd plants. Use size at maturity as a spacing guide when planting.

  • Do not fertilize infected trees and shrubs unless it is recommended by a soil test to correct a nutrient deficiency. Fertilizer will cause the tree to produce young shoots which are highly susceptible to powdery mildew.
    • Prune the tree or shrub during winter months to increase light penetration and improve air circulation throughout the canopy.
    • During the growing season, prune only to remove severely infected shoots.
    • Avoid excessive pruning of infected plants during the growing season. Pruning can cause the tree to produce new shoots which are highly susceptible to powdery mildew.

    Fungicides can be used to protect highly susceptible and prized ornamental shrubs like roses or ninebarks. Fungicides protect healthy green leaves and shoots from powdery mildew infection. They must be applied before disease becomes severe.

    • Scout plants regularly.
    • Apply fungicides when the first powdery mildew leaf spot is found.
    • For shrubs with a history of disease, apply fungicides before you see disease symptoms.
    • Repeat fungicide sprays according to label instructions to protect plants throughout the growing season.

    Chemical treatments include:

    • Thiophanate methyl
    • Chlorothalonil
    • Sulfur (not for sulfur sensitive plants like viburnum)
    • Potassium bicarbonate

    Rebecca Koetter and Michelle Grabowski, Extension educator

    Control Powdery Mildew: Caring For Plants With Powdery Mildew

    As soon as you identify your plant to have powdery mildew, it’s best to take swift action to help keep it from spreading. There are two common ways to help prevent the disease from completely killing your plant or overtaking other plants:

    1. Remove all infected parts of the plant and destroy them. Do not compost them or toss them anywhere near your existing gardens. If you used pruners or other tools to cut the plant back, thoroughly wash them with a mixture of bleach and water (using ten parts water to one part bleach).
    2. Spray infected plants with an all natural, organic fungicide. This method can help alleviate some of the disease, but you may have to cut back the plant anyway if it doesn’t go away completely.

    Powdery mildew can be a gardener’s worst enemy, but it doesn’t have to be! Remember, the easiest way to prevent powdery mildew is to plant disease-resistant varieties and work on prevention in the garden. With a little work and smart planning, you (and the butterflies) will be able to enjoy your Phlox all summer long.

    'Purple Beauty' Creeping Phlox creates a mat of bright purple blooms paired with deep violet center eyes and grass-like foliage. This 4-6" tall spreading perennial flowers in the spr.

    Watch the video: Seed Starting: An Update on Tomatoes, Peppers, Dianthus, Heuchera

    Previous Article

    Information About Prayer Plants

    Next Article

    Tips For Winterizing Potted Strawberry Plants