Incarvillea is a beautiful and very delicate flowering herb from the Bignonium family. There are about 17 species of this plant. Very often gardeners call Incarvillea garden gloxinia. This article will tell you in detail how to properly plant, grow and care for a garden Incarvillea outdoors.

Incarvillea flower description

Incarvillea can be an annual, biennial, or perennial herb that grows up to two meters in height. Tuberous roots, woody. Stems can be simple, erect or branched. The leaves are arranged on the stem in the next order, have an unpaired finger-cut dissected shape, the edges are finely toothed. Inflorescences are racemose or paniculate. The flowers are five-part, the calyx is bell-shaped, the corolla is tubular. Flowers can be yellow, red or pink. The fruit is a polygonal bipartite capsule, winged seeds with pubescence.

Planting incarvillea outdoors

When to plant incarvillea

Planting and caring for Incarvillea outdoors is easy enough. It is best to grow seedlings first, and then transplant them into open ground. The best time to plant Incarvillea seedlings is March. The seeds are distinguished by good germination, therefore, for sure, there will be 100% germination.

For planting, you can use ordinary soil for seedlings, you need to bury the seeds in it only 1 cm.After planting the flower, sprinkle the soil with a small layer of calcined and cooled river sand and water it well. The temperature in the room where the seedlings are grown should be between 18-20 degrees. The first shoots will appear in 5-7 days. Incarvillea seedlings do not tolerate transplanting very well, so the seeds are best planted immediately in peat pots. Such pots can be planted together with seedlings in the ground, they will be an excellent decoration.

Seeds of biennials and perennials can be planted directly in open ground from April to June. If the temperature outside is not lower than 15 degrees, then the first shoots will appear in 2 weeks. The only drawback of the seed method is that such a plant will bloom only in the second year after sowing.

How to plant incarvillea

Incarvillea is best planted on a hill, since it absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging and stagnant water. If the soil in the garden is heavy, then it is necessary during planting to make a good drainage layer from rubble or coarse sand. The place for planting should be such that the sun hits the plant in the first half of the day, and in the second the flower should be in the shade.

The soil for planting Incarvillea should be light and fertile. Sandy loam soil is perfect. Before planting, in each hole you need to pour a little wood ash and mineral fertilizer, which have a long action. You can plant seedlings in holes along with peat and pots, this will give it an opportunity to take root better. The empty space should be filled with garden soil and after planting, water should be abundant.

Caring for Incarvillea in the garden


In order for the plant to grow healthy, strong and beautiful, it is necessary to water it regularly. After each watering, carefully loosen the soil, remove weeds and apply the necessary fertilizers. Watering the Incarvillea should be regular and moderate, the plant does not tolerate both drought and waterlogging of the soil. After each watering or rain, you need to carefully pour the soil so as not to damage the plant's root system. Simultaneously with loosening, it is necessary to remove weeds, if necessary.

Top dressing and fertilizers

Incarvilleas need only two feedings for the entire season. The first should be done at a time when the flower begins to actively grow, and the second - during the formation of buds. As an organic fertilizer, you can use a solution of mullein or bird droppings. In the second half of June, you do not need to apply any fertilizers, annual Incarvillea plants do not need this, and for perennial varieties such late feeding is even harmful, it reduces the winter hardiness of the plant.

Incarvillea in winter

Perennials need a mandatory shelter in the winter. You can cover Incarvillea with spruce paws, sawdust, compost and peat. The layer should be thick enough, not less than 6 cm. When spring comes, the shelter must be removed so that the plant underneath does not stifle. Young Incarvillea seedlings can be covered with a cut plastic bottle or glass jar.

If the winters are too harsh and snowless, then it is better not to risk it and dig up the tubers of the plant. Treat with Maxim, dry well and store in a cool room until spring.

Reproduction of incarvillea

In addition to the seed method, Incarvillea can be propagated vegetatively - by dividing the tubers and leaf cuttings. You need to divide the tubers either in March or in September. Garden gloxinia must be carefully dug out so as not to damage the roots. Then you need to carefully cut the plant into several parts, so that each part has at least two living renewal buds. Places of cuts must be processed with charcoal powder. After dividing, the parts must be planted immediately in the prepared pits.

But reproduction by leaf cuttings should be carried out in the summer - in June or July. To do this, the leaf of the plant must be cut off at the very root and the cut must be treated with Kornevin or any other root-forming agent. After that, the leaf must be planted in soil, which consists of equal parts of peat and sand, and covered with a cut plastic bottle, thereby creating greenhouse conditions. First, the plant will have roots, then a rosette of leaves, and a year later, beautiful flowers.

Diseases and pests

Very often, Incarvillea suffers from root rot. This happens due to the fact that improper watering is carried out and moisture stagnates in the soil. If you do not notice it in time, then the plant will already be difficult to cure, it will most likely die. At the first signs of root decay, it is necessary to carefully treat the plant with a solution of any fungicide. You also need to eliminate errors in watering the flower, if this is not done, the problem will come back again and again.

As for pests, spider mites and mealybugs can infect Incarvillea. These pests suck the juice from the plant, because of this, it gradually withers and turns yellow, and then dies altogether. You can get rid of these pests with the help of such means as Actellik, Aktara and other similar means.

Incarvileia in landscape design

Incarvillea flower is great for growing in rocky gardens, rock gardens and rocky hills. This plant is versatile, looks great in any part of the garden and with any garden flowers. Several species and varieties of Incarvillea can be grown at the same time.

Types and varieties of incarvillea

Only a few species and varieties of Incarvileia are grown in culture.

Incarvillea mairei (Incarvillea mairei = Incarvillea grandiflora = Tecoma mairei)

Leaves are basal, lyre-shaped, slightly feathery dissected, have rounded lobes and grow up to 30 cm in length. The flowers are arranged on long petioles, of a dark purple-red hue, there are white spots on the yellow throat. Flowering begins in early summer. The plant is quite winter hardy.

Incarvillea compacta

Herbaceous perennial. Stems grow up to 30 cm in height, smooth or slightly pubescent. Leaves are pinnate, basal have whole heart-oval lobes. Flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, purple, yellow throat. Flowering of this species lasts from three weeks to one month. Plants of this species do not need shelter for the winter.

There is another variety that grows up to 80 cm. Leaves are basal, pinnately-divided. The flowers are purple-pink, up to 7 cm in diameter. The flowers of some varieties of this species are pink, white or salmon pink.

Olga's Incarvillea (Incarvillea olgae)

Perennial, grows up to 1.5 m in height. Stems glabrous, branched in the upper part. Leaves are opposite, pinnately dissected, whole to the top. Flowers up to 2 cm in diameter, collected in loose inflorescences and have a reddish-pink tint. Flowering begins in mid-summer and lasts almost 2 months. Winter hardiness in this species is low, so the plant can winter only under a very good shelter.

Chinese Incarvillea (Incarvillea sinensis)

It can be both an annual and a perennial. Grows up to 30 cm in height. The leaves are feathery. The flowers are creamy yellow. This species is distinguished by the duration of flowering, since new buds are constantly forming on the plants.

Incarvillea delavayi

Herbaceous perennial plant. Grows up to 1.2 m in height. Flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, pink-lilac shade, yellow throat. Flowering begins in June and lasts about 1 month. This species is not frost-resistant, therefore it needs good shelter for the winter. There are varieties with purple and white flowers.

"Garden Gloxinia" or Incarvillea. Landing

Incarvillea: growing in a Siberian garden

author Polkovnikova V.A., photo by author

I first read about Incarville in a magazine about five years ago. The information was laconic, but this unusual rare plant sunk into my soul.
And I began to look for an opportunity to acquire this beauty. And, as you know, whoever seeks will always find. I managed to acquire first the rhizome of Incarvillea, and later the seeds.

In general, I prefer to grow perennials myself from seeds. I believe that the obtained seedlings are more viable in our Siberian conditions.
I live in the south of Western Siberia, in the city of Tyumen, and our garden is located 20 km from the city. Flowers in my garden, one might say, well, a lot! I grow roses, clematis, peonies, many other perennials and various annuals. Recently I planted rhododendrons and heathers - I hope for good luck, backed up by work.

Four-leaf oxalis

This lovely plant is also called Depp's sour (Oxalis deppei). It is very simple to distinguish it from other types of oxalis: by the reddish-brown spot in the center of the leaves, consisting of four lobes (hence the name of the species). It is believed that this oxalis brings happiness to the house, since if in all other species the four-lobed leaves are an accidental deviation, then in Depp's oxalis it is a species trait.
Thanks to its elegant two-colored leaves, this oxalis looks very attractive in the absence of its reddish-pink small flowers. Flowers bloom about a month after planting nodules in the ground and decorate the plant until late autumn. Depp's acid looks great both in a flower bed and in hanging pots or in balcony boxes

The most difficult moment is her wintering. Often, the nodules of this sorrel are sold here not only in spring, but also in autumn, which implies their wintering in the open field. Alas, in the middle lane, tubers planted in the garden in the fall and still normally not rooted in winter almost always freeze out. But if you plant them in the spring (always in the well-drained soil of the garden), then by the fall they will already perfectly get used to it, and in the presence of an impressive cover of leaves and spruce branches, it is quite possible that they will overwinter. But only on condition of not too severe and rather snowy winter. If you don't want to take risks, dig them up with the onset of the first autumn frosts and store them in peat (in the refrigerator or other cool place).

Planting process: propagation by rhizome

Before planting, you should carefully examine the tuber. High-quality planting material is not damaged by fungus or mold. It is not brittle and a little thick. There is no mechanical damage on it. It is best to store tubers by folding them in paper bags. Large tubers can be divided into multiple roots.

Planting buttercups involves the preparation of planting material. Root cones should be soaked in water with the addition of growth biostimulants. After soaking, the bumps become large. They should not be buried more than five centimeters in the soil. In this case, they are laid with the roots down. The gap between seedlings should not be less than ten centimeters. After that, the soil is watered, but a little so that the roots do not start to rot.

You can buy such tubers in a store or on the Internet. The garden buttercup is a thermophilic plant, the roots of which are dug up and stored. The tubers can be stored in peat pots or wrapped in cloth. The temperature in the storage room should be at least 17 degrees. Plants are stored in September when the rhizome dries up. During this period, it is pulled out of the ground and dried.

Seed propagation

In the spring, the buttercup in the garden can be sown with seeds. To do this, prepare a container for planting with sand. From above, the container is closed with glass so that there is a mini-greenhouse mode here. Ventilation is necessary from time to time.

After the first shoots appear, the buttercup is transferred to a sunny warm place. A buttercup should be planted in an open bed only when at least three leaves appear on the seedling. Seeds do not germinate well, and if the planting material was stored incorrectly, then it may not germinate at all. Buttercup seedlings should be well looked after, ventilated on time and kept to a watering regime.

The seeds planted do not always correspond to the color on the label. In the process of growth, the buttercup can lose its decorative qualities. The planted bush will not bloom in the first year, but only in the second. When buying planting material, you need to pay attention to the procurement date. The best growing varieties are marked with the F1 brand.

Planting in open ground

Holes are dug on the breast (flowerbed) at intervals of 20 centimeters. A drainage layer is poured into it. Then the seedling is placed on top. Transfer is carried out together with a lump of earth. The soil is poured into the hole, then the earth is compacted and watered.

Buttercup seedlings and other types of buttercups do not bloom immediately in the first year after planting. But in the second season, flowers appear on the plants. It is important that the plant does not grow and stifle other flowers with its presence.


Neutral soil or slightly acidic soil is suitable for this flower. In this case, the substrate should be nutritious and light.

Watering mode

The roots of the plant do not like when they are poured, but they also react sharply to dryness. In this regard, the buttercup should be watered correctly so that the soil moisture is optimal. The soil should be touched with your hands to make sure it is not dry or flooded.

With a dry substrate, the flower is watered. So that there is no stagnation of moisture, a drainage layer of expanded clay or pebble stones is made at the bottom of the hole. When flowering ends, water the buttercup less. Watering should not be frequent and abundant. The plant, when flooded, begins to rot and dies.

Planting instructions

  1. In the prepared area, remove all weeds and dig the ground to a depth of at least 20 centimeters
  2. Drain with bricks or small stones
  3. Dig holes and place a layer of dried foliage inside. The depth of the holes depends on the size of the roots, you need to make sure that they do not look out. Since this will cause them to fade
  4. After planting Rogers, do not forget to water it abundantly and apply mulch on top.

Rogersia takes root quickly enough and will delight you with its flowering in a year and a half.But there are also cases when flowers appeared in the third or fourth year. If, after this time, flowering did not happen, then most likely you did something wrong. This could be due to:

  • Direct sunlight on the Rogersia plant or constant weathering of it
  • Poor insulation during the cold season, which leads to freezing
  • Poor watering and insufficient feeding
  • The presence of pests that you do not notice.

Application rules

Fertilizer powder will be useful if the soil in the area is acidic and needs to be made more alkaline. Before using, you need to understand the acidity of the soil. This is done using a litmus test in the laboratory. And also figure out how acidic or alkaline the soil can be with the help of vinegar essence. If you do not observe the dose of applying the powder and use it uncontrollably, this can affect the yield of the plantings.

Processing of the entire site, beds

If the gardener decided to process the entire site, then, depending on the acidity of the soil and additional fertilization with mineral agents, the effectiveness of feeding is from six to nine years. The effectiveness also depends on the level of precipitation, for example, heavy rainfall, snow. Dolomite flour should be scattered over the entire area of ​​the garden and leveled with a rake. After fertilization, the soil is additionally dug up with a shovel to mix the agent with the soil.

This is done so that the active substances of the feeding begin to work faster. Otherwise, the gardener will have to wait until it rains and the product is absorbed into the substrate. Useful substances will fall into the soil and begin to act on the planting and acidity of the earth. But heavy, regular rains can also wash out flour and all other fertilizers that the grower used to feed the plants from the soil.

Processing in greenhouses and greenhouses

The fertilizer is environmentally friendly and can be used outdoors and in greenhouses, greenhouses. To fertilize the plantings, it is enough to apply 100 grams of powder per square meter of area. But here, scattering the product on the ground and leveling it, additional digging of the soil is not recommended. The powder should remain on the surface of the beds and form a thin film. This will keep moisture in the soil. The water after processing dolomite flour will not evaporate so quickly. After fertilization, the soil in the greenhouse will not dry out.

Is it possible to replace dolomite flour

It is possible to deoxidize the substrate not only with dolomite flour. A number of other products are used, such as fluff lime. It is slaked lime that neutralizes the acidity of the soil. A longer period should elapse between plantings than when processing with dolomite flour. The beds should be fed with lime when digging up the soil in the fall. This is done after the harvest has already been harvested. Experienced gardeners recommend adding lime every six years.

To deoxidize the soil, fertilization with wood ash is possible. It is recommended for processing slightly acidic soil with an acidity level of at least 5.5. Ash contains potassium, phosphorus, zinc, sulfur and a number of other useful substances. The soil should be fed during autumn or spring digging. And you can also enrich the soil by introducing ash into each hole when planting plants. In summer, the fertilizer is dissolved in water and watered with vegetable and fruit crops.

Agromel can become one of the substitutes for such feeding. In its action, it is similar to this powder in terms of its deoxidizing effect. Agromel fertilizes the soil once every six years. In this case, the earth must be dug up. In addition, the product can be poured directly into the pits, directly onto the surface of the beds and leveled. The drug is soluble in water and can be used for irrigation in summer.

It is recommended to replace dolomite flour on highly acidic soil with lime, agromel. It is recommended to scatter wood ash over the surface of slightly acidic soil. To improve the speed of action, flour should be buried, so it gives a greater effect than a product scattered on the surface of the garden.

The gardener must be prepared that the effectiveness of the product does not appear immediately. Usually the soil structure improves within two to three years. Then the effect of fertilization begins to gradually decrease. Due to the energy consumption and high powder consumption, this method is rarely used by agronomists to reduce the acidity of the soil.

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