Apricot Pineapple - planting and growing

Apricot Pineapple - has long been known in the south of Russia and Ukraine. It gained popularity for its unusual taste and aroma of pineapple, as well as the size and juiciness of the berry. How and where you can grow this wonderful fruit. Is this within the power of a novice gardener. We will try to find out what problems you may encounter in this case.

Description of the variety and its popular types

Apricot Pineapple is the Russian name for the ancient Armenian variety Shalakh. Apricots of this variety are popular in Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan. There they are grown commercially and used for processing. In the Nikitsky Botanical Garden, Shalakh appeared at the beginning of the last century, from where it spread to the southern regions of Russia and Ukraine.

The following summary was compiled from descriptions of nurseries selling pineapple apricot seedlings, as well as data from several other sources and gardeners' reviews.

Pineapple tree is medium-sized, fast-growing. But some sources point out that it can reach five to six meters. The crown is broadly oval, spreading, prone to thickening. The early maturity is good - in the fourth year after planting, the first fruits are obtained. The average ripening period is the second half of July. There is a good yield of the variety. According to various sources, from one tree are harvested from 50 to 150 kg of berries per season (some report about 200-300 kilograms per tree). The regularity of flowering does not ensure the regularity of the crop. Gardeners of the Crimea note that when the weather is rainy during the apricot flowering period (and this happens quite often in Crimea), pollination does not occur and no ovaries are formed. Self-fertility is high, one tree may well grow on the site and provide good yields. As already noted, the Pineapple variety is southern, thermophilic. Accordingly, its winter hardiness is low. Drought resistance is average. Resistance to fungal diseases, which are traditionally prone to apricot, is average.

Apricot Pineapple fruits are rather large - 30-50 grams. Some people manage to grow berries weighing up to 90 grams or more. The shape of the berry is ovoid. Color - light yellow, golden. The surface of the berry is slightly pubescent, velvety, bumpy. Pineapple pulp, cream color. Juicy, medium-bodied, sweet, with a pleasant sourness and light pineapple aroma. The relatively small pit is easily detached and contains an edible kernel.

The shape of the apricot berries Pineapple - ovoid, yellow color, large size

Fruits for universal use. Plucked from a tree slightly unripe, they can be well transported and stored. The shelf life of fully ripe berries does not exceed 5-7 days.

Video: Apricot Pineapple

Apricot Pineapple Tsyurupinsky

Highlighted in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden and included in the State Register in 2014. Zoned in the North Caucasian region. It has a medium height tree with a spreading, medium thickened crown and straight, bare reddish-brown shoots. It has good winter hardiness - according to gardeners' reviews, the facts of cultivating the variety in Belarus have been noted. Berry ripening times are average. As a rule, the crop is harvested in the second half of July. The yield for industrial cultivation is 90 c / ha.

The berries are round, weighing an average of 40 grams (some sources claim that the weight of the fruit can reach 60-80 grams). The color of the berry is light yellow. The skin has no integumentary color, the structure is medium-rough, has a slight pubescence and velvety. The juicy pulp of light yellow color has a sweet and sour taste. Tasting score - 4.3 points. Fruits for universal purposes have good transportability.

Apricot Pineapple Tsyurupinsky has light yellow berries

Gardeners note the good self-fertility of the variety, average drought resistance and good immunity to major fungal diseases. Early maturity - 3-4 years after planting.

Planting Apricot Pineapple

Planting Pineapple apricot according to its own rules and techniques does not differ from planting other apricots. And like the rest, this variety prefers dry, sunny locations sheltered from the cold northerly winds. And since apricots are prone to damping of roots and boles, they do not grow in swampy and flooded places. And also do not plant it in the shade - the tree will grow, but it will not bloom. The composition of the soil is not too important for the apricot, the structure is much more important. The tree will grow and bear fruit well on loose, drained soils, but it will not like it on heavy clayey soils.

Usually, they try to plant the apricot under the protection of a building wall, fence or dense trees located to the north or northeast of the planting site. When this is not possible, experienced gardeners arrange shelters for a young tree for the first 2-3 years of life in the form of wooden boards painted white. This color helps to reflect the sun's rays, which provides additional lighting and warming up the crown. This is important when planting apricot Pineapple Tsyurupinsky, which is grown in more northern regions. In the south, such precautions can be dispensed with.

Under the protection of fences and walls of the house, not only apricots will feel good

It is best to purchase a seedling in the fall in specialized nurseries - in this case, the gardener will receive planting material of the best quality. They take root well, grow quickly and one or two-year-old plants begin to bear fruit earlier. Older adults tolerate a transplant worse. Choose a seedling with good, fibrous roots, on which there are no extraneous growths or bumps. The bark is smooth, without cracks or damage.

In the southern regions, you can immediately plant the apricot in a permanent place, but in the colder northern regions it is better to postpone this event until early spring. In any case, the seedling is planted in a dormant state during the period of absence of sap flow. Since spring planting is more preferable, it will be considered. In the fall, the acquired seedling is buried in the garden for storage. They do it this way:

  1. They dig a hole in the ground, 30-40 centimeters deep and up to one meter long.
  2. A layer of sand is poured at the bottom. The roots of the seedling are laid on top, previously soaked in a mash made of clay and mullein.
  3. The roots are covered with sand and watered.
  4. The hole is completely filled with earth, leaving the top of the tree on the surface.

    A buried seedling has only the top left on the surface.

If you have a suitable basement with a constant temperature of 0–5 ° C, you can store your seedlings in it.

Step-by-step landing instructions

If a tree is planted in the fall, the pit is prepared 2-3 weeks before planting. For spring planting, the pit is prepared in the fall.

  1. The preparation of the planting hole begins with digging it. The size should be 70–80 centimeters in diameter and the same depth. If the soil is sandy, the volume of the pit is increased to one cubic meter or more.
  2. In the case of heavy soils, a drainage layer 10–12 centimeters thick is poured onto the bottom. On sandy soils, a layer of clay of the same thickness is laid on the bottom to retain water.
  3. After that, you need to completely fill the pit with a nutrient mixture consisting of equal parts of peat, black soil, humus and sand. And also add 300-400 grams of superphosphate and 3-4 liters of wood ash.

    The pit is filled with a nutrient mixture consisting of equal parts of peat, black soil, humus and sand

  4. The contents are mixed with a shovel or pitchfork and covered with a waterproof material until the moment of planting.
  5. Immediately before planting, the seedling is taken out and the roots are soaked for 2-3 hours in a bucket of water, where it is a good idea to add growth stimulants, for example, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Epin.

    Before planting, the roots of the seedling are soaked in water for 2-3 hours

  6. The seedling is placed on a mound with roots and begins to backfill.
  7. Fall asleep evenly, tamping in layers. It is important to ensure that as a result, the root collar is at ground level. It should not be buried, as this can lead to damping.
  8. A tree is tied to a peg with elastic material, while not squeezing the trunk.
  9. A bolster of a near-trunk circle is formed along the diameter of the planting pit and watered abundantly with water. As a result, the soil should adhere to the roots and the absence of air sinuses.
  10. On the second or third day, the soil is loosened and mulched.

    On the second - third day after watering, the trunk circle is loosened and mulched

  11. The stage is completed by cutting the seedling to a height of 60–80 centimeters and shortening the branches by 30–40% of the length.

Features of growing and subtleties of care

Apricot Pineapple is undemanding to care if planted in favorable conditions. In this case, the usual agronomic techniques and methods are applicable to it, which we will briefly recall.


Needs rare but abundant watering. If the season is without rains - watered at the following times:

  1. During the flowering period.
  2. During the formation and growth of ovaries.
  3. 2-3 weeks before harvest.
  4. After harvesting the fruit.
  5. Autumn water-charging irrigation.

It is clear that in a rainy summer, the number of irrigations is reduced or abandoned entirely. The depth of soil moisture should be within 30–35 centimeters. On the second or third day after watering, the trunk circle is loosened and mulched.

Top dressing

If, as recommended, a sufficient amount of nutrition is laid in the planting hole, then they resort to dressing after collecting the first fruits.

Table: what and when to fertilize apricots

Mineral and complex fertilizers should be applied only to pre-moistened soil.


Getting started pruning you need to know and follow simple rules:

  • Cutting tools (saws, secateurs, loppers, knives) must be sharply sharpened and disinfected.
  • When cutting off branches, you must not leave twigs.
  • Thick branches are cut in several steps.
  • Sections with a diameter of more than ten millimeters are protected with garden varnish or garden paint.

Formative pruning

Since the apricot pineapple tree is quite tall, the well-known and proven sparse-tiered crown formation is more suitable for it. It is performed in early spring for several years in the following order:

  1. If the gardener followed the recommendations and made the first pruning step when planting a tree, then after 1–2 years the first tier of skeletal branches is formed. To do this, choose 2-3 best branches, located at a distance of 20-25 centimeters from each other and directed in different directions. They are shortened by 30%, the rest are cut into a ring. The central conductor is cut 20-30 centimeters above the upper branch.
  2. After another 1–2 years, the second tier of skeletal branches is formed in a similar way. On each of the branches of the first tier, 1-2 branches of the second order are selected and left, shortening by half.
  3. After the next 1–2 years, the third tier of skeletal branches is formed, while observing the principle of subordination. This means that the branches of the third tier should be shorter than the branches of the second tier. And they, in turn, should be shorter than the branches of the first tier.
  4. Finally, a central conductor is cut out at the base of the upper skeletal branch.

    Sparse-tiered crown formation: a - pruning during planting; b - for 2-3 years; c - for 3-4 years; d - for 4-5 years

Regulatory trim

This operation is carried out in early spring when the crown thickens by removing the shoots growing inward.

Supportive pruning

In early summer, when there is an intensive growth of young shoots, they are shortened by 10-15 centimeters. This operation is called embossing and is aimed at encouraging the growth of new branches. In the coming season, additional flower buds will form on them, which will increase the yield.

Sanitary pruning

In late autumn, as well as early spring, dry, damaged and diseased branches are removed.

Diseases and pests

These misfortunes will bypass the garden, in which sanitary and preventive measures are regularly carried out.


Carrying out work on the prevention of diseases and pests does not require significant effort and time.

Table: preventive work in the garden

Antifungal drugs are addictive, so using the same drug more than three times per season is ineffective.

Probable diseases

The main types of diseases that apricot are susceptible to are fungal. Prevention and treatment is carried out with the same fungicides.

Clasterosporium disease

The second name of the disease is perforated spotting. It manifests itself in the spring, when the spores of the pathogen with the wind fall on the leaves. Initially, red-brown dots appear on the surface of the leaves, which quickly - in 1–2 weeks - grow to 5–10 millimeters. Inside the spots, the leaf pulp dries up and falls out. Holes are formed. Subsequently, the leaves turn yellow and crumble. In summer, berries become stained and become inedible.

1-2 weeks after the lesion with clasterosporium, the spots turn into holes


Infection usually occurs during flowering. Bees bring spores of the fungus on their paws along with the pollen. Flowers are affected first, then the fungus spreads inside the shoot and leaves. The affected parts first fade, then turn black, giving the impression of being burned by frost or fire. Hence the second name of the disease - monilial burn. When signs of moniliosis are found, the affected shoots are immediately cut out with a part of healthy wood within 20-30 centimeters. In summer, the fungus moves to the berries, affecting with gray rot. Such berries must be picked off and destroyed.

In summer, moniliosis affects apricot berries with gray rot.


This is a bark disease. It occurs when there are unhealed cracks. A fungus settles in them, which eats away the bark and wood, making them rotten. While trying to heal the wound on its own, the tree releases a significant amount of gum. Treatment, like prevention, consists in cleaning the wound to healthy bark and wood, disinfecting it with fungicides and treating the wound with garden varnish.

Hommosis occurs when there are unhealed cracks in the bark

Potential pests

Fortunately, insects are less likely to visit apricots than fungi. And it's easier to deal with them. As a rule, timely treatment with insecticides for a long time discourages those who like to feast on fruits, leaves and apricot roots.

Weevil beetle

This pest hibernates in the soil of the trunk circle. In the spring, when the soil begins to warm up, the beetles crawl out and climb up the trunk to the crown. Hungry, he first pounces on swollen buds, then feeds on flowers, ovaries, leaves and young shoots. In May, begins laying eggs in the soil, from which the larvae of the so-called beetles crawl out.

Weevils feed on tree leaves and more

If the soil has been dug up, all preventive treatments have been carried out, trapping belts have been installed, it is unlikely that the gardener will see this beautiful insect on the branches. Well, if the beetles have moved in search of food from neighboring areas, then while the air has not yet warmed up, you can collect them manually. This is done in the morning when the air temperature does not exceed +5 ° C. At this time, the beetles are in a dormant state, numb sitting on the branches. It remains to spread some fabric under the tree and shake off the handsome men. Then the tree should be treated with insecticides such as Decis, Fufanon, Iskra-Bio, etc.


As mentioned above, the beetle is a weevil larva (its size is 4–6 mm). But not only him. The same larvae, only larger, appear from the eggs of the May (20–25 mm), April (25–35 mm) and other beetles. They all appear at about the same time - at the beginning of June.For three to four weeks, they feed on plant roots and can cause significant damage to a tree, especially a young one. Further, the larvae pupate and by the fall the next generation of weevils and other beetles appears from them. The struggle is to cultivate the soil with Diazonin. The drug remains effective for about three weeks - this is enough to eliminate the beetles.

Khrushchev are the larvae of various beetles

Diazonin does not accumulate in the soil and fruits - the gardener can use it without fear.


Aphids settle on leaves or shoots and feed on their pulp. This happens especially often when a hunting belt is not installed on the trunk and ants freely carry these small insects onto the crown. Aphids, in the process of their vital activity, emit a sweet, sticky liquid, which ants love to feast on. Twisted leaves with aphids inside are cut off and sprayed with insecticides.

Aphids settle on leaves or shoots and feed on their pulp

Apricot Pineapple does not bear fruit - possible causes

There are times when the apricot does not bear fruit. There may be several reasons for this.

Apricot does not bloom

If several years pass after planting, and the apricot has not bloomed, perhaps something is wrong with the place of its planting. For example:

  • The close location of groundwater and roots began to undermine. The situation can be corrected only by transferring to a new place. It is better to use the hill landing method in such places. Above the planting pit, a hill is equipped with a nutrient mixture with a diameter of two meters and a height of at least 70 centimeters, on which a young tree is placed. In the summer, an irrigation roller is made on the hill. For the winter, the roller is removed so that the melt water flows freely and does not stagnate.
  • The tree is planted in dense shade. Such mistakes should not be allowed. The tree will not bloom in such a place until the crown grows higher and the branches are under the sun.
  • Apricot may not bloom in some years if the flower buds have been affected by recurrent frosts.
  • Mass damage by a weevil during the period of swelling of the kidneys can lead to their unusability.

The apricot blooms, but the fruit is not tied

Quite a common occurrence. As a rule, this happens when during the flowering period natural factors act that prevent pollination. For example, strong winds blowing off pollen, prolonged rains, snow, reduced bee activity.

Unfavorable weather conditions during the flowering period are the reason for the absence of ovaries

The fruits are tied, but then crumble

Possible reasons:

  • Lack of nutrition, depleted soil. The plant is unable to bear fruit and discards them. The way out is obvious - to feed the apricot.
  • The defeat of the ovaries by pests. If, breaking the berry, the gardener sees the larvae of the pest eating the insides - the diagnosis is correct. Insecticide treatment required.

Gardeners reviews

Pineapple is a deservedly popular apricot. And it is not so important whether it is just Pineapple, Shalakh or Tsyurupinsky. In any case, it is difficult to remain indifferent after seeing and tasting this spectacular berry. If it is possible to provide good conditions suitable for this variety, it is worth planting and growing this tree.

  • Print

Hello! My name is Pyotr Vladimirovich. I am 63 years old. By education - a mechanical engineer.

Rate the article:

(0 votes, average: 0 out of 5)

Share with your friends!

Apricot Manitoba (Manitoba): variety description, reviews, photos

Apricot is originally a southern heat-loving plant. But breeders have developed varieties that successfully adapt to temperate and more severe climates, yielding crops in such "extreme" conditions. Moreover, the taste of the fruits is not much inferior to the southern ones, which fully deserve the nickname "honey". This category includes the Canadian apricot Manitoba, which is popular not only at home, but also among Russian gardeners.

  1. Breeding history
  2. Description of Manitoba apricot variety and characteristics
  3. Frost and drought resistance
  4. Ripening time and yield
  5. Scope of the fruit
  6. Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
  7. Reproduction methods
  8. Planting and caring for apricots
  9. Terms and conditions of boarding
  10. How to plant correctly
  11. Follow-up care
  12. Diseases and pests
  13. Conclusion
  14. Reviews with photos about the Manitoba apricot variety

Breeding history

When studying the description of a variety, its “pedigree” should be taken into account. Apricot Pineapple Tsyurupinsky is a hybrid.

It is generally accepted that culture is the result of the work of Armenian breeders. Several sources indicate that the variety was bred on the territory of the State Nikitsky Garden, located in the Crimea.

The culture was added to the State Register in 2014. It is recommended to grow it in the North Caucasus region. Gardeners living in the Kherson and Crimean regions can get the harvest. Residents of the Moscow region, despite all efforts, refuse to grow a hybrid. This is primarily due to weather conditions: the flowering time of the tree falls during the May frosts, therefore, even if it survives, it will not bear fruit.

Plant care

In order for a tree to develop quickly and yield a crop, it must be properly formed, fed, protected from pests, winter cold and the sun. It is best to mulch the soil under the tree with small chips, sawdust, husks of nuts, seeds, and any other organic matter. Moisture is retained under the mulch, and the soil remains loose. Flowers can be planted along the perimeter of the apricot trunk circle: nasturtiums, marigolds.

Apricot Pruning Pineapple (Shalah)

Without proper pruning, Pineapple apricots will not yield good yields. It is necessary to constantly monitor the size of the crown, the ratio of the branches. With the annual shortening of shoots by 1/3, many fruit buds appear along the entire length of the branch, more leaves are formed. The root system also depends on pruning. With the correct shortening of the shoots, the roots develop better. The suction roots are especially activated, more fibrous ones are formed.

A feature of apricot tree care is summer pruning. It is used to form more winter-hardy buds on shortened branches that do not awaken during winter thaws, which are most dangerous for the tree.

The crown of an apricot is often formed in the form of a bowl, removing the central conductor, and the branches are shortened by 1/3 of the length. As a rule, after removal of the central conductor, lateral shoots are activated. Of these, 3-4 of the strongest are chosen, and the rest are removed. 3-4 shoots are also left on the remaining branches, and the rest are cut out. A free form with a central conductor is also allowed, provided that the crown is sparse.

If you prune the apricot according to the scheme, the tree will be able to give maximum yields

Sanitary pruning is essential for tree health. It is held in the spring, when the buds open and the damage caused by frost and snow is visible. All damaged branches are removed, cuts and wounds are treated with copper sulfate or ordinary greenery and covered with garden varnish. Do not grind slices, hemp, untreated cracks.

Spring formative pruning of apricot trees - video

How to feed pineapple apricot trees

An excess of nitrogen in the soil is contraindicated for apricot trees. If this factor is not taken into account, the tree begins to have problems with bark and cambium, which are easily damaged even in mild winters. The places where branches leave the trunk and the trunk itself in its middle part are especially affected. If nitrogen is low, the crust becomes too sensitive to sunlight.

Before the start of fruiting, you should not feed the tree with nitrogen fertilizers, since you can cause an active wave of shoot growth, which will negatively affect winter hardiness.

Fruiting apricot trees require regular feeding. At the summer cottage, you can do without chemical fertilizers, and use bone meal to enrich the soil with phosphorus and calcium (up to 200 g under a tree in a tree trunk in the fall). To meet the need for potassium and other trace elements - deciduous tree ash (up to 500 g under a tree in spring). Humus or compost for apricot trees is applied once every 2-3 years (1 bucket for autumn digging in the trunk circle).

It is useful to mulch the near-trunk circle under the cut grass. Gradually decomposing, such mulch fertilizes the soil without exceeding the nitrogen norm for the tree.

Properly fed and watered Pineapple apricot trees (Shalakh) give a consistently high yield every year

Watering apricot trees

Young seedlings should be watered at intervals of 2-3 weeks (20 liters per plant). Drip irrigation helps to maintain a constant moderate soil moisture in the root zone. Watering is stopped from the second half of August. In a dry autumn, after the fall of leaves, before the onset of stable cold weather, it is necessary to carry out water-charging irrigation - 30 liters per tree.

Apricot trees are the most resistant to drought and dry air. Therefore, they grow best in the south or in the mountains.

Protection of apricot trees from adverse natural factors

In order for the Pineapple apricot to please with crops for many years and not get sick, mechanical damage to the bark, as well as cracks from frost cracks, should be avoided. Apricot bark is especially loved by rodents, so you also need to protect yourself from them in a timely manner, using various designs and poisoned baits.

It is not recommended to whitewash young trees under the age of five. To protect them, the barrel is wrapped with various materials that allow air to pass through. The skeletal branches at the bottom are also wrapped. On top of the strapping material from rodents, spruce branches are attached with needles down.

After the tree reaches 5 years of age, in the fall, its bole is covered with whitewash - either a composition of slaked lime with the addition of copper sulphate, or other paints for these purposes, which can be purchased at garden centers.

Winter protection of apricot Pineapple - photo gallery

The bark of trees older than five years is covered with whitewash for the winter, which protects the trunks from frost breaks The protective structure will protect the young seedling from all winter threats The bark of an unprotected apricot tree is a treat for rodents Paper strips can be used to protect the barrel Wrapped in light-colored material, the trunk of the apricot will not be affected by bright sunlight in February To protect the root collar from drying out for the winter, a structure is built that prevents moisture from penetrating to the lower part of the trunk

Preventive work with apricot trees in spring

After the snow melts, all shelters are removed from the trees. To prevent diseases, the apricot tree is sprayed with 3% Bordeaux liquid. After flowering and the appearance of leaves, spraying is repeated, but already with a 1% solution. The trunk circle is loosened, the mulch is renewed.

Diseases and pests

Apricot Orlovchanin is relatively resistant to fungal infections, but with abundant watering it can suffer from various diseases. Therefore, at the beginning of spring, preventive treatment is carried out using any effective fungicide - Bordeaux liquid, "HOM", "Fundazol", "Topaz" and others.

Pests (aphids, moths, leafworms) are fought with folk remedies (infusion of wood ash, tobacco dust, onion husks, cloves of garlic, chili peppers). Insecticides also help: "Biotlin", "Fitoverm", "Match", "Inta-Vir", "Eforia" and others.

Watch the video: Growing Tomato Plant From Tomato Slice Time Lapse

Previous Article

Detailed description of the onion variety stuttgarter rizen

Next Article

Information About Celeriac