Many people believe that you can get a great lawn by applying as much fertilizer as possible and starting to water it generously as soon as the snow melts. In fact, the appearance of a lawn in spring is highly dependent on autumn care. If you leave an unkempt lawn for the winter, then the problems associated with it will not go anywhere, and they will have to be solved in the spring. Following our advice, you will be able to admire a healthy and beautiful lawn in the spring.
At the onset of frost, the grass of the lawn first wears out, and then freezes out, which means that the root system of the lawn must remain as alive and healthy as possible in order to restore the aboveground mass. To preserve the green cover in winter, it is necessary to take care of the lawn in the fall.
Watering the lawn in the process of caring for it in the fall or not depends on the weather outside the window in the literal sense of the word. If it rains every day, then there is no need for watering, because this is not a tree or a shrub, and if there is no rain for several weeks, then watering is needed. A small exception may be plantations on loamy soils and on alumina, there is usually enough water for lawn grass and you don't have to worry about watering especially.
If it is very dry in autumn, then watering can be done once a week, at the very beginning of the day, only by sprinkling (bucket per square meter). You can water until the beginning of October, then the roots do not work so actively, and the soil becomes oversaturated with moisture.
Preparing a lawn for winter necessarily includes fertilizing with mineral fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium
As you know, we mow the lawn many times a year, this leads to depletion of plants, so in the fall they need additional fertilizing, potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil must be in abundance. If by the fall the lawn thins and turns pale, it means that it lacks some element for sure. It is clear that there is no need to let the lawn grow in the autumn period, here you need phosphorus and potassium, the best option is superphosphate and potassium sulfate. It is only permissible to use a diammophoska, there is a minimum of nitrogen, but there are plenty of other elements, two kilograms of this fertilizer will be enough for a hundred square meters of lawn.
If you use double superphosphate, then know that it will take a long time to turn into forms available to plants and you need to apply it exclusively in the shade, the dose is 45-60 g per square meter.
Of the "folk" fertilizers are good - bone meal (250 g per square meter) and wood ash (potassium in it is about 5% and there are trace elements) 300 g per square meter. Try to apply any fertilizers before mid-October, it is great if the soil has been watered before or after the rain has passed, even if it is light.
You can also apply manure, well rotted, but not more often than once every four years in an amount of 3 kg per square meter. Manure should be spread evenly and not scattered in piles.
Aeration, in fact, piercing the turf, creating holes in it allows water to penetrate to the roots, and not stay on the surface and evaporate, in addition, it does not allow moisture to stagnate, does not allow an ice crust to form on the surface of the lawn. Aeration allows you to make the soil looser, enriches the roots with oxygen, and possibly microelements that were previously unavailable. In addition, thanks to aeration, the lawn will heroically transfer the early cold weather, the soil will "breathe" while conserving heat.
The easiest way to care for the lawn in the fall, aeration is to pierce the lawn with a pitchfork, one prick with all the teeth to a depth of 2-3 cm (per square meter) is quite enough. It is advisable to carry out aeration in September and October, no later, and, like fertilization, to carry out on slightly damp soil, it is great if aeration is combined with spring feeding.
The start of the season for caring for emerald carpets does not coincide with the start of the main gardening season. The first procedures for the lawn are carried out only in April, in the middle zone - traditionally not earlier than the third decade of the month. And even then, in the first work, you need to be careful not to harm the sod with an unnecessary load.
In early spring, it is best to avoid:
Procedures in April are reduced to only removing dry grass and debris from the surface of the lawn with a light rake or by hand. Harvesting is carried out only when moisture leaves the soil and the sod is not in a waterlogged state.
Full lawn care does not actually start until May. After thawing and drying of the upper soil, the first serious procedures are started:
If throughout the summer cottage season, high-quality and regular care was carried out for the lawn, then the autumn work on preparing it for the winter season will not require a special investment of time and effort from the owner of the personal plot. So, the main set of activities, which are usually carried out on the eve of cold weather, includes the following procedures, namely:
As a rule, enterprising summer residents begin to slowly prepare the lawn for winter in late August - early September. Such foresight allows you to complete all the necessary work before the onset of frost, without depriving either the garden or the garden of attention.
With the arrival of September days, the frequency of watering the lawn is gradually reduced, bringing it to approximately 1 time in 5-7 days in warm and dry weather and up to 1 time in 8-10 days in cool and cloudy weather. The frequency of haircuts is also reduced, and the last time they try to cut the grass about 2-3 weeks before the onset of the first frost.
In autumn, the activity of moles increases, which can be seen with the naked eye. The mole makes the last harvest before winter and looks for tasty roots in the garden. The appearance of moles on the lawn quickly spoils its aesthetics and mobilizes the owners of the site to fight against pests.
The best method for dealing with moles is to place a lawn mesh - however, this should only be done before installing a new lawn.
To scare away moles from an already installed lawn, you need to use a vibrating electro-acoustic device, which is inaudible to the human ear, but unpleasant for the mole. One of such devices is the "Antikrot" electronic ultrasonic rodent repeller. It is not expensive, in the region of 850 rubles, but the benefits are tangible. I do not recommend using special poisonous or chemical agents.